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How would I polish galv. steel?
 
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Ghettobarney
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0. PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2007 10:55 am    Post subject: How would I polish galv. steel? Reply with quote

I heard NEVER-DULL works but I'm not sure. Is there a way to make it all shiny?
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ChilliumBromide
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1. PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2007 2:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I believe steel wool and some kind of metal polish will do that job. Thankfully, it's tougher than gold, silver, bronze, and copper, so you can use hardcore shit like steel wool. E15.gif
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RespectJSB
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2. PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2007 9:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe I'm using the wrong stuff or wrong technique?
but I've tried a light steel wool rubbing and then an application of this stuff in an orange bottle called "Brasso" (labeled as an all-purpose metal polisher) and all I end up with is a nasty black dirty rag, and a lightly scratched, yet clean, panel. not necessarily any shinier though...
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ChilliumBromide
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3. PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2007 4:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RespectJSB wrote:
Maybe I'm using the wrong stuff or wrong technique?
but I've tried a light steel wool rubbing and then an application of this stuff in an orange bottle called "Brasso" (labeled as an all-purpose metal polisher) and all I end up with is a nasty black dirty rag, and a lightly scratched, yet clean, panel. not necessarily any shinier though...
E19.gif

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Damn. I was hoping you'd be one of the people who could actually answer this question from experience. :/

That said, I guess steel wool isn't your friend?
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dj_sammylvr03
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4. PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2007 8:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SoymilkCharlie wrote:
I believe steel wool and some kind of metal polish will do that job. Thankfully, it's tougher than gold, silver, bronze, and copper, so you can use hardcore shit like steel wool. E15.gif


I made Stoli's pad, and asked him the same question. He said steel-wool and a metal polish. I haven't done it yet though, because nobody gets to see my pad.
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deathfromabove1990
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5. PostPosted: Sat Jul 28, 2007 12:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe you just got screwed on your steel? I'm making a pad right now and today I attached the metal to the wood panels and just cleaning it with a rag for the gluing made them look pretty shiny. How shiny are you trying to get it? Like...mirrored? And...I'd even go so far as to say, if brasso can't, NOTHING can. Seriously, that stuff takes scratches out of iPods. Don't believe me? Try it. It's powerful stuff.
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Marq(uistadorous)
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6. PostPosted: Sat Jul 28, 2007 4:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SoymilkCharlie wrote:
I believe steel wool and some kind of metal polish will do that job.


yeah, that sounds like the best solution
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idConstruct
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7. PostPosted: Sat Jul 28, 2007 4:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

galvy isn't meant to be polished.... and be careful if you do because the zinc coating is reeeely thin
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devout
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8. PostPosted: Sun Jul 29, 2007 9:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

idConstruct wrote:
galvy isn't meant to be polished.... and be careful if you do because the zinc coating is reeeely thin


Exactly.

The whole point of galvanized steel is to keep it from rusting. If you polish it, the zinc comes off, and it rusts. You should only try to polish stainless steel, which is really rust resistant.

But anyway, if you really want to: (i've never tried to polish steel to a mirror finish, but I have with brass. here's the technique I use:)

Use sandpaper, start with like a 400 grit, work in a circular motion, work your way up through 600 grit, 800 grit, 1200, 2000. Soak the sandpaper in water, and keep the metal wet as you're sanding... this will make things easier. Wear a dust mask! or enjoy a long life of coughing. Once you get to 2000 grit, you can either switch to some sort of polish, or buy super-high grit sandpaper (which is fairly expensive, but check out MicroMesh, which goes up to 12000). As for polishes, i'm not really sure which to use. Brasso is basically aluminum crystals suspended in gunk, and is used to make things go from an almost-perfect shine to a perfect shine. It removes verrrrryy little material, so if you haven't already polished it a lot with sandpaper, you wont see a noticeable difference. I am guessing the black crap you saw was black iron oxide (aka rust)...which brings us back to the reason you dont polish galvanized steel.
(Notice the back of the brasso bottles lists stainless steel but not regular steel.)

For the record, it took me about 2 weeks to polish a guitar pickguard (much smaller than a ddr panel) up to a mirror finish. The worst part is the more you polish it, the more obvious the small defects are that you never even would have noticed when you started.

Long story short, polishing is very time consuming, expensive, and won't last. Why not just enjoy the rugged galvanized look?

PS, i am 100% certain stoli's metal is not galvanized steel. I think the brasso-ipod trick usually refers to taking scratches out of the plastic screen... but shiny the metal on an ipod is stainless steel anyway. Also, make sure you read the directions on the brasso... you have to let it DRY before you polish it off.
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ChilliumBromide
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9. PostPosted: Sun Jul 29, 2007 6:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yay for people who know what they're talking about! biggrin.gif

Anyway, all that said, where would one go for high-gauge stainless steel plates, and would they be absurdly more expensive than galvy?
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deathfromabove1990
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10. PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 10:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alright, today I finished my homepad and got to polishing up the metal. So, as I said before, if Brasso can't, nothing can. Now, lots of people say let Brasso dry, but, in my experience, that just isn't as effective. In polishing my iPod with Brasso, I found that letting it dry does half the work that using it wet and really rubbing it and putting some elbow grease in. So, in polishing my panels, I poured brasso onto each panel and spread it over the entire surface of the panel. I let it sit for about 30 seconds, then I started polishing one of the arrows. It immediately turned black and I thought that I had ruined it by using Brasso. But in scrubbing harder I realized it was just dirt and grease and underneath the black (it was like..pure black) it was almost reflective silver. By the time I reached the last panel, the Brasso was dry, and, it got about half as good of a shine as the first panel did. So, you can get an almost mirror finish on your pad with Brasso. I'm not sure how mirror you were talking, but, I could see myself, not clearly, but, I definitely could. The kind of Brasso I use is all purpose, I believe.
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ChilliumBromide
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11. PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 10:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just out of curiousity, how much is anyone really anticipating their panels rusting? Just wipe any sweat/grease off every 10 or 20 songs and there shouldn't be any need for galvanisation.
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deathfromabove1990
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12. PostPosted: Sat Aug 11, 2007 12:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

SoymilkCharlie wrote:
Just out of curiousity, how much is anyone really anticipating their panels rusting? Just wipe any sweat/grease off every 10 or 20 songs and there shouldn't be any need for galvanisation.


I'm not worried about it. I'm sure you could go a lot longer than 10 or 20 songs too. Rusting isn't a very fast process.
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devout
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13. PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2007 12:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah, i'll admit i'm not really sure if rusting would be a problem or not, as I have no idea how quickly the steps would rust. but a lot of people around here seem to want a 0 maintenance pad, and for the you're better off with the galv. (not that theres any such thing as a maintenance free pad, but you know what i mean) I'm mostly opposed to polishing galvanized steel just because it's an affront to engineering. devil.gif And what's so great about shininess anyway...

and ps, when i said mirror, i meant like those things in your bathroom.
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Maverickdebater
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14. PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2007 3:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pretty much as long as you clean it every few weeks or so.. I wouldn't worry about Rust.
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15. PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2007 7:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

deathfromabove1990 wrote:
SoymilkCharlie wrote:
Just out of curiousity, how much is anyone really anticipating their panels rusting? Just wipe any sweat/grease off every 10 or 20 songs and there shouldn't be any need for galvanisation.


I'm not worried about it. I'm sure you could go a lot longer than 10 or 20 songs too. Rusting isn't a very fast process.
Yeah. I know it won't rust in an hour, but you also wouldn't want to let the grease get too familiar with the metal. It's a real chore to shine metal if it hasn't been regularly polished.

For anyone who would know (I figure this doesn't really need a new topic, and this topic seems to be a pretty general metals topic at this point anyway):
The galvinisation is a zinc coating, right? How does zinc conduct compared to steel? And would a small sheet of copper rust if it were simply glued to a wood backing?

I'm considering a few possibilities for the actual sensors on the DT200's. Pennies would work well, granted they wouldn't rust, at least not too rapidly.
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16. PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2007 8:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've never heard of anyone even having their mat rust (other than people who bought from RedOctane and got it prerusted lawl). It is worth mentioning, however, that using steel wool near the mat will leave shavings coating the inside of it.
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ChilliumBromide
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17. PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2007 8:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

"prerusted"
I declare that word of the day. biggrin.gif

I think there were some very minor corrosion signs in a couple places on my tx1000's, but it was all on stuff like the frame and staples.
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18. PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2007 10:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SoymilkCharlie wrote:
"prerusted"
I declare that word of the day. biggrin.gif

I think there were some very minor corrosion signs in a couple places on my tx1000's, but it was all on stuff like the frame and staples.

Well, I don't know, I've got a Blade (which is made by the TX peoples) and it hasn't even shown any rust after over a year.
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ChilliumBromide
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19. PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2007 10:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Agent 24 wrote:
SoymilkCharlie wrote:
"prerusted"
I declare that word of the day. biggrin.gif

I think there were some very minor corrosion signs in a couple places on my tx1000's, but it was all on stuff like the frame and staples.

Well, I don't know, I've got a Blade (which is made by the TX peoples) and it hasn't even shown any rust after over a year.
I had to completely take the pad apart to get to the parts I mentioned where rusting had occured.

The outside doesn't get corroded at all because it's always out in the open. Typically, rust happens in enclosed spaces. For instance, if you leave something out in the rain that has small grooves in it, it'll rust along the grooves before anything happens with the smoother parts. I've got a square that shows that perfectly. It actually gave it a cool marbling effect.
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