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Marq's Homemade Metal Pad!
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Marq(uistadorous)
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0. PostPosted: Thu Apr 13, 2006 9:03 pm    Post subject: Marq's Homemade Metal Pad! Reply with quote

EDIT: pics of finished pad on pg 3 i think...

I used the official itg panel graphics. I used riptides main design, but if you notice, my pad's plywood base sticks out on the back. I'm gonna put a bar on the back (so technically I'm not completely done). I also used two pieces of .22 in. acrylic for each arrow instead of one so I could sandwich my graphics and make each panel stronger. I will also eventually put pics of it with the bar when I finish that. So keep checking this thread for more pics and info biggrin.gif E1.gif

Personally, I'm very proud of my self. I did it all my self, but my dad helped me solder to the controler. It took me about a month of hard work and alot of thinking. Let me tell you it was alot of work. But if it works well, it was worth it. It feels pretty "arcade perfect"

These five videos are what I used. But I changed it up a little. I got some extra plywood and sheet metal for the bar and I soldered to my old tx1000 control box.

http://teamd5r.freevideoblog.com/search/pad/0.htm

DO NOT TRY TO SOLDER TO A NORMAL PS2 CONTROLLER OR A SOFT PAD CONTROLLER!!!! IT DOESNT WORK!!!!. I just got a 15 pin male connector to attatch to my tx control box, and then just soldered the wires to that connector:

http://teamd5r.freevideoblog.com/search/pad/0.htm

Tell me how you like it:











Here's my control box thingy with the x button. It turned out that I didn't need the other button...

[img]
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i184/marquistadorous/dancepics005.jpg[/img]

There are pics of the scores I got using it for the 1st day on page 3

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Last edited by Marq(uistadorous) on Mon Oct 23, 2006 3:00 pm, edited 9 times in total
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discobiscuits
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1. PostPosted: Thu Apr 13, 2006 9:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

you should be proud bro! that's a nice buttocks pad!
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Razor LOL
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2. PostPosted: Fri Apr 14, 2006 4:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now all you need is a bar and your good to go, very nice. E13.gif
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mr.miyagi
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3. PostPosted: Fri Apr 14, 2006 6:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

awesome pad!!! would pay you like 500 bucks for a pad like that or at least teach me how to make it.
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vesper
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4. PostPosted: Fri Apr 14, 2006 7:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

HOLY CRAP!!!!! riiight.gif riiight.gif riiight.gif riiight.gif riiight.gif riiight.gif riiight.gif riiight.gif

You've done an amazing job so far, I hope my turns out half as good as yours did laugh.gif
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Marq(uistadorous)
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5. PostPosted: Fri Apr 14, 2006 9:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mr.miyagi wrote:
awesome pad!!! would pay you like 500 bucks for a pad like that or at least teach me how to make it.


As I said, I used riptides basic design. But I did customize it slightly cause I wanted a bar and thicker panels. His design also doesnt have a control box, but I didn't want to drill holes in the upper corner of my pad for 2 little buttons. And I'm glad you guys like it E1.gif
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DJBon2112
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6. PostPosted: Fri Apr 14, 2006 10:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's one hot pad! Are you going to post instructions? (Please fo ^.^)
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Marq(uistadorous)
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7. PostPosted: Fri Apr 14, 2006 12:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

These five videos are what I used. But I got some extra plywood and sheet metal for the bar:

http://teamd5r.freevideoblog.com/search/pad/0.htm

Bad news!! My pad is not working. E12.gif It constantly says that the controller is disconnected (ITG ps2), and when it doesnt, each arrow works very unconsistantly.

-I know it's not the arrows themselves cause all the connections are good.
-I think it's the controller I used to solder to. I got it from my friend and it was very used. and when I was figuring out the soldering points, there were some weird things going on sometimes.
-I know it's not broken soldering or anything, cause I have the open controller wraped in bubble plastic, and each of the arrows will work every now in than for a VERY short period of time before I get "the controller in controller port 1 is disconnected. Press x to continue" message pops up. But it only pops up after i have hit a few arrows. If I just let the song go with out hitting anything, the message doesnt pop up.
-Another thing it could be (which I REALLY hope it isn't) is my ps2. I have a slim ps2, and mabey it doesnt give out enough power? But I doubt that, cause I think my dance pad needs just as much power as a controller. Actually It should use less cause I dont have as many buttons on it as a normal controller

What do you guys think it is? I really think I just need to use a different controller, so hopefully It's no big deal erm.gif
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-Scorpion-
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8. PostPosted: Fri Apr 14, 2006 3:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm pretty sure it's the static discharges on the plexiglas that are causing your problems. Try playing easy songs with socks and see if your pad lasts longer.
The only solution is to get a controlbox for an existing Metalpad or use a PCB from a softpad since these are protected against static discharges.

Scorpion
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Marq(uistadorous)
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9. PostPosted: Fri Apr 14, 2006 3:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

-Scorpion- wrote:
I'm pretty sure it's the static discharges on the plexiglas that are causing your problems. Try playing easy songs with socks and see if your pad lasts longer.
The only solution is to get a controlbox for an existing Metalpad or use a PCB from a softpad since these are protected against static discharges.

Scorpion


Static discharges? Never thought about that. But the controller is under the upper left panel and is COMPLETELY surrounded by wood. Could the plexiglass static STILL reach the controller?
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-Scorpion-
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10. PostPosted: Fri Apr 14, 2006 4:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep, it somehow gets to the pad thorugh the metal under the plexiglas, that's connected to the button circuits.
Believe me dude, I had the same problem with my pad with a USB Gamepad on PC until I switched to an Xbox Controlbox for the TX Series.
People on the "my homebuilt metalpad" thread have talked about that for some time, too.
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Marq(uistadorous)
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11. PostPosted: Fri Apr 14, 2006 9:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanx alot scorpion! I'm almost sure it's static discharge, cause that makes sense AND I played with socks and I made it through a easy song with out it screwing up! biggrin.gif
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MinN_Limited
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12. PostPosted: Fri Apr 14, 2006 10:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, the pad looks awesome...sorta like mine did before the repeated beatings. The static problem might be easily remedied by grounding the entire pad...like, connect the common round to the sheet metal non-arrow panels.
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vesper
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13. PostPosted: Mon Apr 17, 2006 5:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does your pad feel just like the arcade? More importantly though, can you slide like you can at the arcade E15.gif

I'm usually good about keeping my balance at home, but every time I go to the arcade I slide off the pad at least once laugh.gif
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slvrshdw
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14. PostPosted: Mon Apr 17, 2006 6:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nice pad, but the ITG arrows SUCK riiight.gif

mine is basically like that

a tip for being cheap..
dont cover the sides with the sheet metal, just use....DUCT TAPE!

well, thats what i did...and WHAT CONTACT SYSTEM DID U USE?!

ive tried a few variations and NONE of them work for me.. frust.gif
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Marq(uistadorous)
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15. PostPosted: Mon Apr 17, 2006 6:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

slvrshdw wrote:


well, thats what i did...and WHAT CONTACT SYSTEM DID U USE?!
:


Riptide's design with sheet metal strips under each panel which contact with screws which have wire wrapped around them. And I love my graphics E15.gif
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slvrshdw
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16. PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 4:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

gr...i guess i'll have to go back to that design frust.gif

and if you like the arrows, then good riiight.gif
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Marq(uistadorous)
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17. PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 7:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Guys, I have more bad news E2.gif . PLEASE HELP. I was almost positive the problem was the static. So tonight me and my dad did alot to try to fix it. He knew alot about solving static, so we got 2 pieces of some foam, sandwiched the controller between the foam, and glued foil onto the out side of the foam. Then we grounded the whole pad. Then I plugged it in, started to play an easy itg song, and it was just as bad.

I'll try to explain the problem I have as best as possible. I've been trying it on itg. When I start a song, the first couple arrows might work, but then an arrow, or sometimes 2 arrows stop working, then the message "the controller in controller port 1 has been disconnected (lol) . Press x to continue". Then I press x and the arrows start to do odd things (for example, the down and the up arrow will just not work, or the right arrow is constantly and rapidly being activated). The message keeps comming up, about every few seconds after I start to dance again. But the weird thing is that the message only pops up after I hit an arrow or two. If I just stand or jump around on the SOLID panels, the message does not pop up.

My dad thinks the problem is cold soldering points or vibrations cause my controller is under my upper left solid panel (but the controller is wrapped in foam, and none of the soldering points are broken that I can see!). I think that I might need a new controller to solder to, cause the one I used is an old one I got from my friend.

I NEED to get my pad to work!!!! Since my tx1000 died, I NEVER get to play ddr/itg!!! I used to play everyday. Now I only get to play if I go to the freakin arcade with the gay max2 machine. I've spent a good 150$ on this pad, and I can't get 350$ for a new cobalt!! PLEASE HELP ME
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-Scorpion-
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18. PostPosted: Wed Apr 19, 2006 9:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am sure that your problem is still the gamepad, not cold soldering points:

I tried to ground a normal Gamepad, too, but that did not work for me either! Don't ask me why but I've tried everything: I connected the ground to earth, installed "safety diodes", and even connected the +5V supply of the controller to earth through a high resistor.

Save yourself the trouble and get a TX controlbox from liksang (about 10 bucks) and use that thing. I know there is a pinout for the old controlbox on liksang's forums. You said your old TX1000 died, so you probably still have the Controlbox. Just use that one.

Scorpion
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Marq(uistadorous)
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19. PostPosted: Wed Apr 19, 2006 2:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I really appreciate your help, scorpion. I think I will try using a tx control box, but I just gave my old tx1000 away to my friend frown.gif . I DO have an extra one, but that one is screwed up cause the down arrow was constantly activated when I used that on my tx1000. Can I fix that?
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