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ninjastyle777 Basic Member
Joined: 28 Jan 2009
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6700. Posted: Sat Feb 14, 2009 5:34 am Post subject: |
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Hey Steinway
I'm a Graphic designer working at a print shop so I can help with your arrow images if you want.
I see you won't have to cut the corners off your arrow panels with how your brackets are set up. That's convenient.
Is that MDF you use for your base? |
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CT_Warrior Trick Member
Joined: 28 Jan 2008
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6701. Posted: Sat Feb 14, 2009 10:52 pm Post subject: |
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ninjastyle777 wrote: | Thanks! You know I did have that concern about my sensors. I was just planning on replacing them with arcade sensors in the future, but what would you recommend? Let me know how things fair with your sensor design.
As far as with the Lexan on the wood...I play bare footed and I haven't really noticed any cons except that you will have to compensate for the added height to the non arrow panels. I used .093 Lexan for mine and if you notice there is a small square piece of it under each corner bracket to even everything out. That worked out great cause it doubles as a cover for my wires. Also, wood is a funny material as it expands and contracts depending on the environment. Some days I'll notice the lexan bowing up a little and on other day it will be really tight on the wood. I did start to just glue them down with gorilla glue, but that started to look ugly underneath the clear lexan. I'm just glad lexan is almost indestructible. It does feel better under my feet than that "over used" sheet metal. |
People recommended me something called "Weatherseal" The D/R profile. Though I haven't tested it in an actual pad, it decompresses immediately, faster than you can take your fingers off of it, and doesn't show any lasting changes if you squish it for more than a minute and let go. Can you say the same for your weatherstripping? (Btw, don't get arcade sensors. THEY'RE MUCH TOO EXPENSIVE and contact switches are good enough)
I disagree about adding the Lexan under the corner brackets. The brackets and the Lexan on top of the non-arrow panel should be the same height I think. Not putting sheet metal would make the bracket sit a little higher than the rest of the pad, but putting Lexan on the nonarrow panels offsets this. I'm glad Lexan is working well for you. I bought 5 sheets of Lexan to implement and I'll tell you all how it works out in a week or so. |
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Steinway Basic Member
Joined: 30 Jan 2009
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6702. Posted: Sun Feb 15, 2009 12:48 am Post subject: |
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ninjastyle777 wrote: | Hey Steinway
I'm a Graphic designer working at a print shop so I can help with your arrow images if you want.
I see you won't have to cut the corners off your arrow panels with how your brackets are set up. That's convenient.
Is that MDF you use for your base? |
Sweet thanks, I'm still not sure what I want for the designs I was thinking of having the 4 card suits, I'm not sure if that would look any good thought.
Yes it is MDF the whole pad was made using one 2400x1200 piece of 12mm MDF. |
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loulan Basic Member
Joined: 11 Feb 2009
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6703. Posted: Sun Feb 15, 2009 12:38 pm Post subject: |
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Mmh... I was wondering... How comes people are using buttons for these homemade pads instead of using touch sensors? I mean, it would probably be possible to have two wires (ideally printed on a big PCB) on each pad forming some pattern (to cover the whole pad) but not touching each other, and when your foot touches the pattern i.e. both wires, conductance between the wires changes, and thanks to some electrical circuit behind that (I found a few schemas on the internet), we could close the usual circuit via a transistor. Or more simply we could have a grid of flat nails on a wooden board, each nail being connected altenatively to wire 1 or wire 2.
Of course, one would have to play barefoot but I usually play barefoot even on my metal pad (I hate playing with shoes).
So mmh... I was thinking about building that, but I'm really wondering, how comes nobody did it yet? Is that because you guys love playing with shoes? It would be *very* accurate and virtually unbreakable (no moving parts at all).
Hell, with the wires' patterns being arrow-shaped it could even be stylish.
Or maybe someone already did that but I haven't found anything about it yet.
Last edited by loulan on Mon Feb 16, 2009 12:15 am, edited 3 times in total |
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Steinway Basic Member
Joined: 30 Jan 2009
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6704. Posted: Sun Feb 15, 2009 10:07 pm Post subject: |
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loulan wrote: | Mmh... I was wondering... How comes people are using buttons for these homemade pads instead of using touch sensors? I mean, it would probably be possible to have two wires (ideally printed on a big PCB) on each pad forming some pattern (to cover the whole pad) but not touching each other, and when your foot touches the pattern i.e. both wires, conductance between the wires changes, and thanks to some electrical circuit behind that (I found a few schemas on the internet), we could close the usual circuit via a transistor.
Of course, one would have to play barefoot but I usually play barefoot even on my metal pad (I hate playing with shoes).
So mmh... I was thinking about building that, but I'm really wondering, how comes nobody did it yet? Is that because you guys love playing with shoes? It would be *very* accurate and virtually unbreakable (no moving parts at all).
Hell, with the wires' patterns being arrow-shaped it could even be stylish.
Or maybe someone already did that but I haven't found anything about it yet. |
That sound very interesting but my first year electrical apprentice knowledge can only make half sense of that, do you mind posting the schemas for us? |
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loulan Basic Member
Joined: 11 Feb 2009
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6705. Posted: Mon Feb 16, 2009 12:28 am Post subject: |
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Well electrical engineering isn't really my thing, especially the analogic part, but I guess with the internet and some help from some electronics hobbyists' forums it could be done. I think the idea isn't that far-fetched, because when I was in high school, they made me build one of these circuits where when you touch two screws with your bare hands a LED lights up (altough I've forgotten everything about it since then hehe). I found the following schemas so far (well they're using a LED but they also say that we could use a MOSFET instead of a LED to use them as a switch, although I'm not too sure how to do it exactly) :
http://www.sonelec-musique.com/electronique_realisations_detecteur_toucher_001.html
http://www.sonelec-musique.com/electronique_realisations_detecteur_toucher_002.html
http://www.sonelec-musique.com/electronique_realisations_detecteur_toucher_003.html
(It's in French, sorry. But I'm pretty sure we can find similar pages in English.)
Another way would be to use metallic panels (no wire 1/wire 2 thing) and to detect the changes in capacitance (we wouldn't need two wires but I'm not sure about the sensitivity) :
http://www.sonelec-musique.com/electronique_realisations_detecteur_toucher_004.html
Okay so for now I'm not too sure how I would do it, and maybe it's a crappy idea because there's some problem I didn't think about I already started posting questions on some electronics forums, and if others are interested by this idea, maybe there are some electronics majors that could help us at ddrfreak (why did I choose CS ). |
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dither Basic Member
Joined: 04 Feb 2009
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6706. Posted: Mon Feb 16, 2009 10:57 am Post subject: |
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i was thinking the same thing before, but it seemed the response time on such a circuit would be unsatisfactory. also dancing on a big PCB doesn't seem like it would be comfortable at all! you could easily do something like what you are saying with two NPN transistors in what they call "darlington pair" see:
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loulan Basic Member
Joined: 11 Feb 2009
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6707. Posted: Mon Feb 16, 2009 1:59 pm Post subject: |
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Interesting... Did you estimate the response time? How much was it?
Oh and I don't see anything wrong with dancing on a PCB since it's just a plastic panel... but anyways, there are other ways, as long as you have some contact on the panel. |
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dither Basic Member
Joined: 04 Feb 2009
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6708. Posted: Mon Feb 16, 2009 9:35 pm Post subject: |
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i actually didn't do any testing of my own because i couldn't find a way to incorporate it into my design so i gave up on the idea and made some home made tapeswitches. |
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Steinway Basic Member
Joined: 30 Jan 2009
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MasterSprtn117 Basic Member
Joined: 01 Mar 2009
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6710. Posted: Sun Mar 01, 2009 2:53 pm Post subject: |
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Has anyone created a hard pad for the Xbox 360? All I come up with is pads for Playstation... |
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ChilliumBromide Trick Member
Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Location: Beaverton, OR |
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Shuma Gorath Trick Member
Joined: 15 Dec 2008
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Rajjab Trick Member
Joined: 02 Nov 2004 Location: Lasalle, Montreal, Canada |
6713. Posted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 7:31 am Post subject: |
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lol nice bar, i never thought of that _________________
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DRKREVOLT Basic Member
Joined: 30 Mar 2009
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6714. Posted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 3:43 pm Post subject: |
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Diet wrote: |
$39.51 melamine base board 4x8 This is exactly the stuff that CF uses. It's big enough to make two pads out of, but it's the smallest size that will work. A couple of grooves along the top of the melamine act as canals for the wiring. Luckily we own a router, so we can make them free of charge.
themed. |
This seems like very interesting design, I was wondering if you could post were you found the melamine baseboard, I've been searching and had no luck as of yet. I also was wondering if about the performance of the pad, I played on a cobalt before and I loved it and I was really interested in replicating the design.
With that being said I want to thank all the posters for the wealth of information that's available on these forums. I was wondering if anyone has any pics of a disassembled cobalt flux so I could see the interior design.
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NapstrPSX Basic Member
Joined: 06 Oct 2002
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6715. Posted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 6:16 pm Post subject: |
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Hello! Old time member that has recently been dropping by the site. My love for DDR has been blossoming all over again lately.
Basically, I want to get a decent setup at home again. I've built my own home metal pad before following the original instructions and it turned out great... but it got ditched at one point. but, I at least have the confidence of knowing that it should turn out fine.
Has the cost of building a pad gone up much over the past 6+ years? I remember it costing roughly $120 then. From what I can see there's not a good metal pad that is pretty much guaranteed to last that is even close to being as inexpensive as building... except for maybe this one:
http://www.amazon.com/PS3-Tournament-Metal-Arcade-Dance-Playstation/dp/B000IBTSR2/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=videogames&qid=1238465254&sr=8-1
I'm not asking for reviews on it here, but there doesn't seem to be any threads/info on it yet on the site. Looks like it could be promising.
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EDIT: After doing a close double-check, it looks like the link above may be the same thing as the TX-1000 Metal Pad listed in the pad index. Seemingly identical control box, pretty much same everything except the positions of the red/blue arrows are switched. Needless to say I'd be a skeptical buyer as it has very mixed reception.
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Aaaanyway, the 2 questions I'm looking for answers on that I couldn't find from wading through pages of text is
1) rough estimate of modern cost of building
2) Are there any strongly recommended changes that should be made if following the original instructions. I know that building is very subjective, I'm not looking to deviate from the instructions I followed all those years ago.
Thanks to any input!
I am so happy to see this site still going.
Last edited by NapstrPSX on Mon Mar 30, 2009 6:27 pm, edited 1 time in total |
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Shuma Gorath Trick Member
Joined: 15 Dec 2008
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6716. Posted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 6:27 pm Post subject: |
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first you have to tell us how you want your pad. the cost may vary significantly according to the materials you are going to use. also, there are MANY ways of building a homepad. I dont know what are the "original" instructions, though. |
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NapstrPSX Basic Member
Joined: 06 Oct 2002
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6717. Posted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 6:32 pm Post subject: |
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Thank you for the response! Bah... this is where I was trying to avoid confusion. This is what I mean by the original instructions:
http://www.angelfire.com/d20/ddrhomepad/
Basically, I plan on following the directions as closely as possible, using the same materials. Price of bells and whistles not included.
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EDIT: Might as well give a link to what it looked like the first time I built it: http://www.angelfire.com/ks3/invader/ddr_pad.html
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I remember I got the lucite-like material from Lowe's and the sheet metal from a local factory-type place where it seemed to be reasonably priced. Basically, I'm just buying from run-of-the-mill dept. stores otherwise.
I just wondered if maybe there were any design issues or flaws in the original design that I could easily improve upon without incurring any real extra cost. Or, is that design pretty solid and reliable? |
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dither Basic Member
Joined: 04 Feb 2009
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6718. Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 7:01 am Post subject: |
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one thing that i think most people have changed is the sensor design. most people use matrix sensor design now and from the looks of it, seems the best way to go. i personally made my own tape switches out of sheet metal and electrical tape, and i think they more closely resemble arcade sensors.
matrix: http://members.shaw.ca/lluk/ddrpad/ |
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slvrshdw Trick Member
Joined: 05 Jan 2005
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6719. Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 3:45 pm Post subject: |
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first, the ebay+ddrgame = huge POS. don't even think about it
As for the cost, if you are just building 1, the cost is maybe $130-140, and you can easily build 2 pads for $150-200 because of the 4'x8' sheets instead of the 4'x4' ones.
Anyway, the most expensive things are the plex/lucite/lexan and the corner brackets.
the sensor design has been much improved by Matrix's sensor design as well. I would suggest that instead of Homepad's sensors.
Also, since you already have made a pad before, i would just make another one like that.
(there are a few different models too, modify them to your needs like I did ;D) _________________
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