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My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)
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ChilliumBromide
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6640. PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 11:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Decided to make some brackets today just for kicks; I only made two of each of these:




Pretty easy to make, and everything's customisable. I don't really use 'em myself, but if anybody wants me to make them some, feel free to ask. (you'll have to pay for them, but it won't be the exorbitant $2 each you pay at Lowe's or Home Depot)
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devosbi
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6641. PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 11:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I tested one of the arrows today, and it works great. For my sensors i have a washer in the corner of the base of each arrow and on the arrow itself, overall there is like a 2mm gap between the contacts, so I cant really feel the panel depress when i step on it ^^ Only problem is, I may need to loosen it, cos sometimes the arrows lock down or press when there is no weight so it needs some tweaking, other than that its great. I'll grab some photos next chance I get.

My Sensors: 2 Washers (fairly big ones) separated by 10mm Foam weather stripping.

also, the base of the pad has been lined with a checkered rubber matting, i saw it for like $30 a meter so i grabbed some, its glued to the base, and stapled, looks pretty good, and the pad wont go anywhere =P even on carpet.
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stuffmonger
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6642. PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2008 1:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

DancingTofu(SMC) wrote:
Decided to make some brackets today just for kicks; I only made two of each of these:




Pretty easy to make, and everything's customisable. I don't really use 'em myself, but if anybody wants me to make them some, feel free to ask. (you'll have to pay for them, but it won't be the exorbitant $2 each you pay at Lowe's or Home Depot)


The first one looks decent enough, but I think the second style will not work very well. If you only have one screw, the wood underneath can twist and end up adding more friction to the plexi and possibly making it bind up.

Also, out of curiosity, why did you choose to taper the corners instead of having straight front edge brackets?
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AJAX the Insomniac
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6643. PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2008 8:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yay my pad works!!! happy.gif (I have to tweak the sensors just a little bit, but as of now, its pretty good)

Now I just need to add a bar, and wooden borders around the edges of the pad, and its done! biggrin.gif
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ChilliumBromide
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6644. PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2008 8:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

stuffmonger wrote:

The first one looks decent enough, but I think the second style will not work very well. If you only have one screw, the wood underneath can twist and end up adding more friction to the plexi and possibly making it bind up.

Also, out of curiosity, why did you choose to taper the corners instead of having straight front edge brackets?
The screw wouldn't be holding the wood down; it would be glued or tacked in, depending on the size and type of wood. So one screw or two screws it wouldn't matter.

I tapered the edges because it's how I felt like making them at the time. Actually though, it should be noted that these (because of the tapered edges) wouldn't hold a panel down very securely. The 26ga. steel would bend up and it would look like an Afterburner. E15.gif
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stuffmonger
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6645. PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2008 9:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

DancingTofu(SMC) wrote:
The screw wouldn't be holding the wood down; it would be glued or tacked in, depending on the size and type of wood. So one screw or two screws it wouldn't matter.

I tapered the edges because it's how I felt like making them at the time. Actually though, it should be noted that these (because of the tapered edges) wouldn't hold a panel down very securely. The 26ga. steel would bend up and it would look like an Afterburner. E15.gif


Ah. I see.
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EnvyX
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6646. PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2008 5:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

stuffmonger wrote:


I used 4 cherry microswitches on each arrow that I placed so that they would depress when the foam is compressed. so, I don't have any solder points inside the pad at all. The only soldering done was on the controllers themselves. Though I could have soldered the wires to the microswitches, I decided to go with quick disconnects in case one of them went bad over time, so they would be easy to replace. Having said that, I'm currently waiting for my router to come in so that I can replace the cherry microswitches with replacement arcade tapeswitches (which I already have, but haven't made the foundations for because of the lack of a router). The microswitches work REALLY well, but the only way to mount them is with some pretty flimsy screws, and I'd rather have the real arcade sensors without having the need for moving parts. I had a few pictures a few pages back.


That's a cool idea! That seems like it'd be a ton easier (and even less expensive than the route that I took). I would like to know how well the arcade tapeswitches work, and how well they attach to your pad.
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stuffmonger
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6647. PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2008 10:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

EnvyX wrote:
That's a cool idea! That seems like it'd be a ton easier (and even less expensive than the route that I took). I would like to know how well the arcade tapeswitches work, and how well they attach to your pad.


I'll be sure to post when my router comes in about the arcade switches, but I am expecting them to be pretty perfect, and have no attatchment issues since they will be sitting loose in a groove that will be barely wider than they are, and sandwiched between the plexi and wood supports. That's my plan anyways.

P.s. the microswitches were a cheap sensor solution that is effective (about $8-$10 per pad), the arcade tapeswitches are not cheap by a long shot... talking about $175 for each pad on top of the pad itself.
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ChilliumBromide
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6648. PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2008 12:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stuffmonger, if you can find some of the pictures of the beatgear pads that have been posted, the method he used to hold his tapeswitches was far better than what Konami or MMB does. Basically, the entire switch is held in a little chamber, and a small rubber cylinder triggers the switch in such a fashion that there is never an excessive force on the switch. With this method, the lifespan of the switches increases astronomically. It's like drinking out of a cup instead of drinking out of a water fountain. By increasing control, you decrease waste.
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devosbi
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6649. PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2008 3:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another photo of my progress, ive clipped down an arrow and fitted it with the corner brackets and its working great, i might replace one of the washers with thinner sheet metal to reduce the sensitivity, cos right now its VERY sensitive, and it might cause some ghost steps.


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mikieson
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6650. PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2008 3:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

DancingTofu(SMC) wrote:
Decided to make some brackets today just for kicks; I only made two of each of these:




Pretty easy to make, and everything's customisable. I don't really use 'em myself, but if anybody wants me to make them some, feel free to ask. (you'll have to pay for them, but it won't be the exorbitant $2 each you pay at Lowe's or Home Depot)

I make my own brackets as well. Easy to do and way cheap.
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stuffmonger
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6651. PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2008 4:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

DancingTofu(SMC) wrote:
Stuffmonger, if you can find some of the pictures of the beatgear pads that have been posted, the method he used to hold his tapeswitches was far better than what Konami or MMB does. Basically, the entire switch is held in a little chamber, and a small rubber cylinder triggers the switch in such a fashion that there is never an excessive force on the switch. With this method, the lifespan of the switches increases astronomically. It's like drinking out of a cup instead of drinking out of a water fountain. By increasing control, you decrease waste.


While looking for the beatgear pads on google, I came across these pad designs that I had not seen before:
http://inventgeek.com/projects/dancepad1/overview.aspx
and the 2 pad design:
http://inventgeek.com/Projects/dancepad2/overview.aspx

http://www.applied-sciences.net/library/laserpad.php

looks pretty neat.
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ChilliumBromide
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6652. PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2008 3:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The first two are the same, but the third one is completely different. It uses LASERs to trigger the buttons. It's a pretty good idea, but poorly executed.

The first design is a waste of money. It's all looks and doesn't even use cool lights. It's a good base design, but neither creative nor efficient. The switches they use are good though; check them out some time.
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kaikanor
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6653. PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2008 9:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, after finding out I'm going to have to wait until Christmas to start building my real pad, I decided to make something temporary. I threw this thing together in a few hours and used just stuff I had at home, so it was completely free. It basically uses the devout stealth design, and surprisingly, all of the arrows worked on my first try (thank goodness). The only thing I need to do now is screw the panels down onto the base, which doesn't sound too difficult and all, but there's one problem: the whole pad is about 1/4 in. thick... Waaaaay too thin for any of the screws I have at home. So, I've come up with two ideas: either buy really really tiny screws, or buy a plywood base to screw the whole thing into, so I could use longer screws. The plywood sounds like it would work better, but the screws would be cheaper. How much could I get a 33"x33" piece of plywood for?

Here's a picture of my....pad-like creation:



I made that control box like 2 years ago when I wanted to build a DDR pad. It uses a Gamecube controller which I ripped out of an old crappy Mad Catz pad, but it works great. The sensors on the inside just use aluminum foil (I know, that's a no-no). I've plugged it into my computer and tested the input with Stepmania and it works flawlessly. Now if only I could screw this thing together and use it >.<
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mikieson
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6654. PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2008 10:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

kaikanor wrote:
So, after finding out I'm going to have to wait until Christmas to start building my real pad, I decided to make something temporary. I threw this thing together in a few hours and used just stuff I had at home, so it was completely free. It basically uses the devout stealth design, and surprisingly, all of the arrows worked on my first try (thank goodness). The only thing I need to do now is screw the panels down onto the base, which doesn't sound too difficult and all, but there's one problem: the whole pad is about 1/4 in. thick... Waaaaay too thin for any of the screws I have at home. So, I've come up with two ideas: either buy really really tiny screws, or buy a plywood base to screw the whole thing into, so I could use longer screws. The plywood sounds like it would work better, but the screws would be cheaper. How much could I get a 33"x33" piece of plywood for?

Here's a picture of my....pad-like creation:



I made that control box like 2 years ago when I wanted to build a DDR pad. It uses a Gamecube controller which I ripped out of an old crappy Mad Catz pad, but it works great. The sensors on the inside just use aluminum foil (I know, that's a no-no). I've plugged it into my computer and tested the input with Stepmania and it works flawlessly. Now if only I could screw this thing together and use it >.<


I really really wish I could find a control box like that. The one I need has to be about 3" deep and about that long. I use "arcade" type buttons and they are longer than those little buttons.
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kaikanor
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6655. PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2008 10:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ehh... this one is 2 inches deep. I got it at Radio Shack, it was pretty cheap, and they had a lot of different sizes to choose from.
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mikieson
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6656. PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2008 10:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am in the middle of making my 6th ddr pad. Im not a noob, but sometimes I need help on wirreing as Im not the brightest.

I normally drill through the boards and twist my wires and tape them rather than the normal soldering...Never have had a problem

Thing is...I wonder, WHY cant we just SPLICE into the wires on the cord? Im looking at the circuit board im going to use...Its a PS2 board. They are quite different but I have used one before I think..

Im looking at all the different wires coming out of the board...red,black,green, brown, orange, yellow, blue, white, purple...Or so they look those colors to me.

Cant you just come off those wires?
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devout
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6657. PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2008 11:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mikieson wrote:
I am in the middle of making my 6th ddr pad. Im not a noob, but sometimes I need help on wirreing as Im not the brightest.

I normally drill through the boards and twist my wires and tape them rather than the normal soldering...Never have had a problem

Thing is...I wonder, WHY cant we just SPLICE into the wires on the cord? Im looking at the circuit board im going to use...Its a PS2 board. They are quite different but I have used one before I think..

Im looking at all the different wires coming out of the board...red,black,green, brown, orange, yellow, blue, white, purple...Or so they look those colors to me.

Cant you just come off those wires?


I believe there is not a one-to-one correspondence between buttons and wires. There is an up button but no "up wire", so you need the the board to convert the button presses into wire signals.
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mikieson
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6658. PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2008 11:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok...makes scense.

"horrible speller"...frown.gif
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ChilliumBromide
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6659. PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2008 7:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think there is an exception of that, and that's when you are wiring to one of those oldschool 15-pin joystick plugs. Not sure of that though.
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