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outbakjak Basic Member
Joined: 15 Oct 2006 Location: Orlando, FL |
5460. Posted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 3:46 am Post subject: |
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I have a question: Do the lexan replacement panels sold on cobaltflux.com work for homepad projects? as far as I know, that's the cheapest way to get what lexan you would need, pre-cut and all, but is it too thin or is it about the same thickness of two .22 inch panels? hmmmm.... _________________
-AAAAHHH!!!!! |
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ChilliumBromide Trick Member
Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Location: Beaverton, OR |
5461. Posted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 5:05 pm Post subject: |
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The CF panels won't work for my pads, 'cause I'm going to be using 12" panels due to my big feet. Otherwise, they should work fine, but don't take my word for it. _________________
I used to be active here lol |
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EnigmaFX Basic Member
Joined: 17 Oct 2006
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5462. Posted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 7:07 pm Post subject: |
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I have an idea for my buttons but I dont know if it would work......
Lexan or acrylic
Arrow Design
Thin Plastic
Metal
Metal
Would it work? |
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ChilliumBromide Trick Member
Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Location: Beaverton, OR |
5463. Posted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 7:31 pm Post subject: |
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EnigmaFX wrote: | I have an idea for my buttons but I dont know if it would work......
Lexan or acrylic
Arrow Design
Thin Plastic
Metal
Metal
Would it work? | It ought to.
But really, I'd suggest trying to get it printed onto the plastic.
They have these fancy decals that will go on pretty easily and stay on for a long time that you can use for model cars and stuff; I used to use them a lot, but I wouldn't know where you could get some with a custom design.
Personally, I'm just going to get arrows cut from steel sheets, then have them inlaid into the lexan.
It's simple and it looks cool; that's all I'm going for. (price isn't high on the priority list) _________________
I used to be active here lol |
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geckoinc99 Trick Member
Joined: 11 Feb 2005 Location: Chattanooga, TN |
5464. Posted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 7:54 pm Post subject: |
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EnigmaFX,
That design scheme will work just fine. Although you can have the graphics printed directly onto the plastic, sandwiching a piece of paper with the printing on it works great too. There are a few of advantages to this:
1. Price. I can go to Staples and get arrows printed on 11x14 inch paper (which will get the 11x11 size) for about $2.00 a print. This gets sandwiched between two pieces of plexiglass (lexan, it's all the same polycarbonate with different degrees of hardness). This makes it very easy to replace either because a panel broke or you decide you want a different graphic.
2. Noise cancellation. If you have two pieces of plastic rubbing against each other, they get very noisy. The paper will act as a barrier and stop this noise. O don't know what a vinyl decal would do since it's similar to plastic.
3. Light. If you print on standard paper, it will allow light through if your goal is to light the arrows.
When designing your arrow, there are two ways to build them (following your form).
1. For lighted designs: Going from top to bottom you will have a thin sheet of plexi (I think they're about 0.093" thick), then graphic, then thick plexi (about 0.22" thick), then upper metal contact, then lower metal contact.
2. For non lighted designs: Going from top to bottom you will have a thin sheet of plexi, then graphic, then a base (you can use plexi, but really wood could work here or some other form of rigid and sturdy material will do as well), then upper metal contact, then bottom metal contact.
There are plenty examples to follow in this forum. Take what info you want from them and go with it. If you don't feel like experimenting, then follow a design exactly, otherwise have fun being creative. Hope that helps.
By the way, a great way to attach the metal to the base (whether plexiglass or other) contact cement works wonderfully. Just brush the stuff on both surfaces, allow to dry, then stick together. Good luck with the build.
David _________________
Life is very different 3000 feet above the earth with only a wing to hold you up....
Can't wait to be there again. Wanna join me? Visit http://www.hanglide.com
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geckoinc99 Trick Member
Joined: 11 Feb 2005 Location: Chattanooga, TN |
5465. Posted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 7:57 pm Post subject: |
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DancingTofu,
I don't see much of a reason to extend the size to 12" I have large feet as well and have never felt hampered by it. At least this holds true for a four arrow design. If you're persuing one of the six or eight arrow designs, then I can totally understand. Otherwise, it's a waste and will make it harder for you to translate to the arcade if you ever decide to play there. I'm not trying to be critical, just don't want you to have to build more than is neccessary. It's your call though. _________________
Life is very different 3000 feet above the earth with only a wing to hold you up....
Can't wait to be there again. Wanna join me? Visit http://www.hanglide.com
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ChilliumBromide Trick Member
Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Location: Beaverton, OR |
5466. Posted: Fri Oct 20, 2006 4:50 pm Post subject: |
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geckoinc99 wrote: | DancingTofu,
I don't see much of a reason to extend the size to 12" I have large feet as well and have never felt hampered by it. At least this holds true for a four arrow design. If you're persuing one of the six or eight arrow designs, then I can totally understand. Otherwise, it's a waste and will make it harder for you to translate to the arcade if you ever decide to play there. I'm not trying to be critical, just don't want you to have to build more than is neccessary. It's your call though. | Actually, my main reason is because I don't feel like making more cuts than necessary.
You see, the design uses sheet steel arrows, and I can get sheet steel for less than $1 per sq ft in 3' x 2' sheets, so that's four cuts per sheet, as opposed to the six cuts per sheet (at least) for standard panels. This will also use all my material, instead of leaving me with 2 or 3 inch strips all over the place. Also, I don't care about translating to the arcade; it takes me 3 songs to get used to a different pad, and it's not like regular homepads translate properly anyway, due to arrow size, panel design, etc.
Also, I'm currently looking at getting a 4th mix machine (which I'm going to probably end up upgrading to 5th mix, ITG2, or Extreme), so I might not wind up building my own pads at all, at least not for a long time.
Nevertheless, I'll still design them and make them for friends. _________________
I used to be active here lol |
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geckoinc99 Trick Member
Joined: 11 Feb 2005 Location: Chattanooga, TN |
5467. Posted: Fri Oct 20, 2006 6:07 pm Post subject: |
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Hey, that sounds great. I just wanted to make sure no one was doing more work than needed or felt like large feet would not work with standard sizes. Good luck with the builds.
David _________________
Life is very different 3000 feet above the earth with only a wing to hold you up....
Can't wait to be there again. Wanna join me? Visit http://www.hanglide.com
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Gibbo Trick Member
Joined: 07 Sep 2006
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5468. Posted: Fri Oct 20, 2006 7:22 pm Post subject: |
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About how much should Lexan cost?
I went to a local Paint and Plastics supplier today, and asked for a price on 10 square feet...
And the guy spits me back a price of "around 120 bucks."
Now, did he a) mishear me, because I fumbled over what I was trying to say (Perhaps he got me 10 sheets at 10 x 10 and 7'8", or at 2.2 thickness, instead of .22 thickness.) b) look at the wrong thing or c) try to rip me off?
For convenience sake, 120 CAD is about 105USD.. _________________
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ChilliumBromide Trick Member
Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Location: Beaverton, OR |
5469. Posted: Fri Oct 20, 2006 8:55 pm Post subject: |
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Nah, that's actually about right.
I found an eBay seller who sells lexan for pretty much the cheapest you'll see, at around $6 for sq ft for 1/8" lexan, if you buy large amounts. (such as 10 sq ft)
I can get you a link, if you like. _________________
I used to be active here lol |
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Gibbo Trick Member
Joined: 07 Sep 2006
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5470. Posted: Sat Oct 21, 2006 1:14 am Post subject: |
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I had no idea it was that expensive..
Yeah, that link would be much appreciated, thanks. _________________
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Travelsonic Trick Member
Joined: 08 Oct 2005
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5471. Posted: Sat Oct 21, 2006 5:09 am Post subject: |
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Does anybody have specs and measurements for the arcade pads? I AM making my own metal pads as close to the acrade design as huamnly possible, but I feel in order to do this I'd need true specs. I am also too lazy to search through 270+ pages of tips, tricks, and information on making metal pads. _________________
I'll believe that when me **** turns purple, and smells like rainbow sherbet. |
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ChilliumBromide Trick Member
Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Location: Beaverton, OR |
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EnigmaFX Basic Member
Joined: 17 Oct 2006
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5473. Posted: Sun Oct 22, 2006 11:05 am Post subject: |
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geckoinc99 wrote: | EnigmaFX,
That design scheme will work just fine. Although you can have the graphics printed directly onto the plastic, sandwiching a piece of paper with the printing on it works great too. There are a few of advantages to this:
1. Price. I can go to Staples and get arrows printed on 11x14 inch paper (which will get the 11x11 size) for about $2.00 a print. This gets sandwiched between two pieces of plexiglass (lexan, it's all the same polycarbonate with different degrees of hardness). This makes it very easy to replace either because a panel broke or you decide you want a different graphic.
2. Noise cancellation. If you have two pieces of plastic rubbing against each other, they get very noisy. The paper will act as a barrier and stop this noise. O don't know what a vinyl decal would do since it's similar to plastic.
3. Light. If you print on standard paper, it will allow light through if your goal is to light the arrows.
When designing your arrow, there are two ways to build them (following your form).
1. For lighted designs: Going from top to bottom you will have a thin sheet of plexi (I think they're about 0.093" thick), then graphic, then thick plexi (about 0.22" thick), then upper metal contact, then lower metal contact.
2. For non lighted designs: Going from top to bottom you will have a thin sheet of plexi, then graphic, then a base (you can use plexi, but really wood could work here or some other form of rigid and sturdy material will do as well), then upper metal contact, then bottom metal contact.
There are plenty examples to follow in this forum. Take what info you want from them and go with it. If you don't feel like experimenting, then follow a design exactly, otherwise have fun being creative. Hope that helps.
By the way, a great way to attach the metal to the base (whether plexiglass or other) contact cement works wonderfully. Just brush the stuff on both surfaces, allow to dry, then stick together. Good luck with the build.
David |
Holy molly thanks for the info!~
1 thing : Does the graphic fit on a regular piece of paper? |
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ChilliumBromide Trick Member
Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Location: Beaverton, OR |
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EnigmaFX Basic Member
Joined: 17 Oct 2006
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5475. Posted: Sun Oct 22, 2006 3:42 pm Post subject: |
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so i need go to staples and make them print it on big paper? |
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traydemark03 Trick Member
Joined: 22 Oct 2006
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5476. Posted: Mon Oct 23, 2006 9:53 am Post subject: |
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Ey...what size/kind of screws should I use with the 2" brackets. The 1 1/4" drywall screws from riptide's design don't look like they'll work. They're raised about a 1/16 above the bracket...and that kind of defeats the whole purpose of using the bracket. |
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Weston Trick Member
Joined: 17 Feb 2003 Location: Minnesota |
5477. Posted: Mon Oct 23, 2006 10:26 am Post subject: |
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traydemark03:
The types of screws you should use are specific to the pad design. For mine, I drilled the holes in the brackets larger to fit my flathead screws. Other people seem to use self-drilling rounded top lath screws. It's really up to you. Figure out exactly how you want the brackets to feel with the screws in them, then search for a screw that fits that need.
Enigma:
Yeah, you can do that, which is what I did, or you can print out two pieces of paper and put them together. I also recommend laminating them. The plastic panels create friction when they slide around, which can rub off the ink and tear up the paper. |
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traydemark03 Trick Member
Joined: 22 Oct 2006
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5478. Posted: Mon Oct 23, 2006 10:37 am Post subject: |
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Ey Weston. I was referring to the size of the screws needed to screw down just the 2" brackets for the contacts (riptide design). That is a good idea, though it'll be a lot of work to widen each hole for each bracket. I guess I better get started ha!
Thanks |
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firezion Basic Member
Joined: 24 Oct 2006
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5479. Posted: Tue Oct 24, 2006 5:08 pm Post subject: |
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Helllo!
Im currently starting to build a set of 2 dance pads.. There are a lot of small questions I still have in mind, and allthough I´ve read a lot, wich I haven´t got a clear answer. First..
1) How thin amount of Lexan, (Using a system like Riptides for example) will endure weight around 250 pounds? Can you glue lexan pieces together to make it "one", and more durable?
I´ll be back later, with more questions. It´s too late for me this side of the globe. ;/ |
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