My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)

[marcan]

The PS2 interface is really simple. It's basically a variation of SPI with a few more signals (a synchronous serial interface). You've got plenty of info on sites that show you how to interface a PS1 pad.

Summarising, it goes like this: all signals are open collector, pullups are provided at the console so you just have to read inputs and pull ouputs down when neccesary. You've got clock, command, and data, which are really clock, in, and out (as seen from the pad's point of view). Every 8 clock cycles a byte is read in from command and written to data. The pad must ONLY respond to the bus while SELECT is low (because the bus is shared between all memory cards and pads, or at least it was on the PS1, PS2 I think might not share them, but just pretend it does). PS2 sends a command, pad reports data (if any) on the successive bytes. After a correct byte the pad should bring the ACK line low for a couple cycles to acknowledge to the PS2 so it knows there is a pad connected. Signalling is 3.3V on the PS2 I believe, but since it's open collector you can use 5V logic. Just make sure 3.3V is above Vih for your MCU (it usually is, since most are TTL-CMOS compatible with a 2V Vih), and remember the pad port only provides 3.3V power supply, plus 9V-ish for the rumble motors (I use the 9V, stabilized down to 5V for my PIC, and ignore the 3.3V).

USB is waaaay more complex, you need a dedicated USB interfacing MCU (unless you're prepared to bitbang USB, which I think is crazy, but some have done it with 50Mhz MCUs and such. I wouldn't want to try it, hell, I even use the PIC's SPI port for the PS2 interface which IS fairly bitbangable). Anyway, I've got code for a USB HID interface for PIC18F MCUs (in assembler). It would be trivial to adapt it for 9 buttons (or, heck, even to emulate a keyboard or anything else. Most of the code is boilerplate USB handling stuff, all you need to do is edit the descriptors to describe whatever HID device you want and pump packets out the endpoint). Of course, this isn't right now "burn the HEX and forget", since you do have to change a few things, but I assume since you've had some experience with microcontrollers it shouldn't be a big deal.

BTW, right now I have PS2 code for the PIC16F87x, and USB code for the 18F4550. I'll add PS2 to the 4550 soon, I just haven't gotten around to it.

[sheep]

So I'm going to start building a pad in athe next few days, based off DDRHomepad's design, the only real difference being that I need it connected to the computer, not a PS1. So would it be easier to use a USB gamepad, or usea PS1 controller and a PS -> USB converter? I've heard the converters cause some lag on the arrows, but I wouldn't have any idea on how to solder a USB gamepad. Suggestions?

Thanks.

[geckoinc99]

Borrow a controller board from a softpad that's made for USB. Then you just connect to the usually large contacts on the board used by the soft pad. That's how a lot of hardpads were made here. It's probably the easiest solution.

David
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Life is very different 3000 feet above the earth with only a wing to hold you up....
Can't wait to be there again. Wanna join me? Visit http://www.hanglide.com

[sheep]

Hm, thanks. Will any cheap softpad do?

[Jebus92]

Do ypu people think a 14yr old like myself can make one of these pads?
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This is the best siggy!

[marcan]

Considering I'm a 15 year old... yeah, you can, if you put some effort into it, and you've got someone else to drive you to Home Depot.

[Aflac]

Hey guys, I'm back (for those of you who remember me)! It's been a very very long time since I've done anything DDR-related.

Jebus92 - yes, it's very possible - as long as you can get access to power tools, are careful, and have access to Home Depot and money . I built my pad when I was 15.


hmm... now that I think about it... why did I come back here again? I know I had some reason......

Oh, I have a question. Are there any designs/is there a way to make an arrow panel that doesn't flex? I'm planning on building another pad to complement the one I already have, but the costs are a bit prohibitive - lexan is expensive, and plexiglass has already broken on me... I was thinking maybe of using some 1/4" or possibly even 1/8" plywood or something. I need to keep the cost of this new pad low, preferably below $100.

[geckoinc99]

Aflac,
To keep the flex down on your pad so the panel doesn't crack (even with plexiglass), use a center support. Here's a link to a picture of mine:

http://www.geocities.com/geckoinc99/DDRpadpanel.jpg

I've had as much as 400 pounds on one of my squares and they have not cracked yet. Plexiglass will only crack if it flexes too much. This will stop it because then it's supported on all sides. I'm assuming you did Riptide's design, because the others have a completely flat bottom and shouldn't be able to flex. See if that helps.

David
_________________

Life is very different 3000 feet above the earth with only a wing to hold you up....
Can't wait to be there again. Wanna join me? Visit http://www.hanglide.com

[marcan]

Pad lighting update!


Click for larger image

Beta 1 version of arrow lighting Works better than I thought it would! Contrast is exaggerated by the camera - you can actually see the graphic very clearly right next to the lamp, it's much more even than it looks, and contrast with the masked semicircle is not as much.

Design has the following layers:

- White cardboard for support
- Aluminum foil to reflect stray light upwards
- Plexiglass with lighted areas painted white (everything except semicircle and edges), on the bottom side to reflect light upward from inside the plexi, with a CCFL on the edge,
- Cardboard mask to remove extra light and improve contrast
- Graphic laser-printed onto semi-transparent polyester
- Thinner Lexan top cover

[markielowski]

I am looking for the sticker set that goes on the sides of the real arcade dance pads. Does anyone know where i can get them for my homebuilt pad?

[ksuquix]

[Orion33428]

Sorry if this has been asked before (which it probably has >.<) but Im not sure which is the best pad design for me to build. I like stolis design, but his instructions are a little hard to follow. Now ddrhomepad's design seems much easier to build, but it doesnt give a material list..

So I guess my question is really what materials would I need for ddrhomepads design?

edit:
nevermind, found the list lol x.x
But I have another question, whats better to solder, the ps1 controler or the cheap soft ddr pads?

[slvrshdw]

soft pad controllers FTW

ya, they are way easier to solder, just use them; its worth it
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[kagelump]

I'm kinda trying to build a ddr selection box (basically, a terterbox), but one thing has stumpted me

how do i light up the illuminating pushbuttons?

WIP pictures:

picture1
picture2
picture3

basically, i'm thinking about sticking in 12v (that seems to be the voltage rating of the pushbutton lightbulb) of batteries into the box, so does anyone (probably with some knowledge of electrical stuff) have any idea how to make the buttons light?

right now, i'm just using a simple setup of soldering the pushbuttons to the gutted usb gamepad (with the barrier strip in between them)

thanks

edit:
just to clear things up, what i want is that the button lights up only when its pushed.
so is there a way to make it so that when electricity from one circuit passes through something, it switchs on another circuit?
kinda like a transistor, except i would think it has 4 pins =/

edit2:
okay, i just tried out using a transistor
the light bulb lighted, which was good
but i think i also fried my usb joystick controller, which is bad
now i need to go make another one ~_~

[zombiejesus9001]

I wanted to work on a home pad and I like what the person did with the washers and screw as the switch and to support the panel was bits of mouse pad. I wanted to do that idea but instead of using washers and screws I wanted to try something like cherry switchs you know the ones used in pop'n controllers I think. Has anyone tried using cherry switch's for a ddr pad is it even possible? Cause I was thinkin of using it as the switch and using cut up mouse pads to support the panel.

[slvrshdw]

i think those types of switches break too easily with the pounding of DDR, which is why people use the screw/washer/sheet metal design
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[Mix Ma$ta']

You aren't going to be able to light those 12V buttons unless you diode the circuit first. The problem is that your USB controller isn't running on 12V, so whats effectively happening is that the 12V power source is bleeding into the controller and effectively, going into your controller. Also, be careful that you didn't do anything to your USB port or your computer/xbox/whatever you're working with here. Check out Ransai's diagram on how to wire a Pop'n Music controller for lights. It has all the stuff you'll need material wise and such, you can just use that diagram on how to light things while blocking the power from the actual board.

[marcan]

Look back a few pages for my lighting circuit. Summarising, wire the buttons to light up the lights, with the buttons high-side (i.e. +12V to button, button to lamp, lamp to GND). Then take the Button to Lamp connection, and wire a 10K resistor to it and then connect that to the base of a small NPN transistor (BC547 works, or whatever cheap NPN type you can find). Transistor emitter goes to GND, and transistor collector to the USB pad. Voila, you've got lighting.

Alternatively you could probably just wire the button low-side and use a resistor and a zener to clamp the voltage down to something the USB controller can manage, but the transistor route is the safest.

[Aflac]

[marcan]

That would be me . I used strain gages from a bathroom scale, which actually measure how much you're pressing. This does require quite a bit more electronics than your usual switch though, since you need amplifiers and some sort of adjustable comparator to generate an on/off signal from the pressure measurement.