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MrFixIt
Trick Member
Joined: 25 Jan 2006
Location: At home....rocking out! |
300.  Posted: Sat Jan 28, 2006 7:19 pm Post subject: |
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| Quote: | Are you putting something inbetween the sensors and the brackets? The old business card trick can work, but I've had mixed results with it.
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No,Actually what I was talking about there was the backet and the grooved rubber track the sensors slide into.When I worked on ours the first time,we had alot of arrows which would stick on or lag;When I opened it I saw whoever worked on it last had the brackets so tight they were pinching the sensors.The other problem you can get from over-tight brackets (or sometimes just when they get old and have been stepped on alot) is the grooved rubber track ends up pinched inward somewhat,that can get in the way during operation and cause sensors to feel slow.
The other thing I have heard besides the business card is a piece cut from the lid of a pizza box;a simple folded over piece of notebook paper also works,you only want to use that technique if your double sided tape or whatever you are using has worn off.
| Quote: | | Beware of not tightening your screws down all the way. Too loose and you'll be missing screws in a matter of days. If that's causing sticky sensors, then remove some of the extra padding under the arrow. Most people use double sided foam tape or rubber weatherstripping I've found works quite well too. I'd trim that stuff down before loosing screws. |
Absolutely,if you let them loose they will vibrate loose during the course of normal play. The sticky sensor problem can happen if you try force and extra turn or two to get them super tight.My rule of thumb pretty much is tighten the screws until they "feel" all the way in, then observe the pad; if additional turning causes the pad to flex downward then it is too tight,back the screws off a little.
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"Dude...he wasn't even supposed to BE here!"- Big Boss Man
-DDR:1st person to play on the new arrows
-ITG:1st person to play on the new arrows
-SC3:1st person to have a legend character |
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Aoi-chan
Vivid Member
Joined: 17 Apr 2003
Location: Wisconsin |
| 301. Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2006 12:49 pm Post subject: |
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| MrFixIt wrote: | | No,Actually what I was talking about there was the backet and the grooved rubber track the sensors slide into.When I worked on ours the first time,we had alot of arrows which would stick on or lag;When I opened it I saw whoever worked on it last had the brackets so tight they were pinching the sensors.The other problem you can get from over-tight brackets (or sometimes just when they get old and have been stepped on alot) is the grooved rubber track ends up pinched inward somewhat,that can get in the way during operation and cause sensors to feel slow. |
I'm confused on this point. How can the brackets be on too tight? Do you have the washer and spacer on each screw? I've never seen the bracket on too tight, there has been plenty of clearance above/below the bracket to not cause any problems. The only times I've seen a bracket "stick" is when a screw is missing it's spacer/washer combo. Was this cabinet modded in some way from it's original design?
| MrFixIt wrote: | | Absolutely,if you let them loose they will vibrate loose during the course of normal play. The sticky sensor problem can happen if you try force and extra turn or two to get them super tight.My rule of thumb pretty much is tighten the screws until they "feel" all the way in, then observe the pad; if additional turning causes the pad to flex downward then it is too tight,back the screws off a little. |
If you have too much extra padding on top of the brackets or under the sensors, that forces the arrow too high and this is why your screws are causing this problem. You should be able to tighten all your screws all the way down and not have this problem. If you literally can see the arrow move downward from tightening a screw(s) on the top brackets, then one or more of your sensor brackets has too much padding and therefore is resting too high.
Unless you want to be checking your pads 10 times a day for missing/loose screws or sticky sensors, this is your only true option.
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MrFixIt
Trick Member
Joined: 25 Jan 2006
Location: At home....rocking out! |
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Aoi-chan
Vivid Member
Joined: 17 Apr 2003
Location: Wisconsin |
| 303. Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 12:39 am Post subject: |
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| MrFixIt wrote: | Actually,when I first opened it up, almost none of the brackets had spacer/washers.  I re-worked all the brackets with proper spacer/washers, and that solved alot of problems. Fun thing is now I have to replace alot of the rubber tracks since the bracket squished them in and made it too tight for a proper sesnor fit.
Maybe I am explaining it wrong: The screws tighten down all the way like they should...However, if you try to "force" an extra turn or two out of them once they are all the way tight, the pad will pinch down a little bit. It can also happen if the screws you use for the pad brackets are too long. |
That must have sucked big time to replace all those washers/spacers.
But even with longer screws in the top brackets, that still doesn't make a difference. Those screws don't come in contact with the arrow, they go below the bracket mounting and along side the arrow. Look at the yellow mountings in the four corners under the arrow. That is where the extra length of the screws go. This is also how you can remove an arrow with only 2 brackets taken off, since the screws don't do jack to hold them in place, they just hold the brackets firmly in place.
I've experienced exactly what you're describing and the result was having too much padding on top of the sensor brackets or under the sensors. I think we are saying the same thing, but why it's happening is where the confusion is. Make sense? Remove the padding on your brackets and then put the arrow back in place, tighten the screws all the way down and you'll see what I'm taking about.
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MrFixIt
Trick Member
Joined: 25 Jan 2006
Location: At home....rocking out! |
| 304. Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 3:41 pm Post subject: |
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| Aoi-chan wrote: | | I've experienced exactly what you're describing and the result was having too much padding on top of the sensor brackets or under the sensors. I think we are saying the same thing, but why it's happening is where the confusion is. Make sense? Remove the padding on your brackets and then put the arrow back in place, tighten the screws all the way down and you'll see what I'm taking about. |
I understand what you are saying...BUT it was experiencing that problem without any sort of padding on or under the brackets at all...backed the screws off on one bracket by the problematic sensor just ever so minutely (maybe 1/32 of a turn) and it went away never to return.
If you think replacing washer/spacers is bad, the ITG2 cabinet we got was converted from a bootleg DDR machine, the inside of the pads is a piece of low-grade wood with little spaces routed out that the sensors just rest in...no brackets, all they had were these little plastic dot things that were not even fastened to anything,just laying loose on the sensor,so of course after about 3 steps they slide off and the pad goes dead...we had to make temporary rigs for the sensors with cardboard and tape...And changing a bad sensor....let's just say it is the only cabinet ever which requires you to disconnect all the molexes from the cabinet,flip the entire step/pad assembly over, and remove the entire bottom of the entire thing just to swap a sensor...
_________________
"Dude...he wasn't even supposed to BE here!"- Big Boss Man
-DDR:1st person to play on the new arrows
-ITG:1st person to play on the new arrows
-SC3:1st person to have a legend character |
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Aoi-chan
Vivid Member
Joined: 17 Apr 2003
Location: Wisconsin |
| 305. Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 3:58 pm Post subject: |
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| MrFixIt wrote: | | I understand what you are saying...BUT it was experiencing that problem without any sort of padding on or under the brackets at all...backed the screws off on one bracket by the problematic sensor just ever so minutely (maybe 1/32 of a turn) and it went away never to return. |
Are your brackets bent or after market brands? Or do you have different arrows on your pads? Maybe the Namco red/blue?
| MrFixIt wrote: | | If you think replacing washer/spacers is bad, the ITG2 cabinet we got was converted from a bootleg DDR machine, the inside of the pads is a piece of low-grade wood with little spaces routed out that the sensors just rest in...no brackets, all they had were these little plastic dot things that were not even fastened to anything,just laying loose on the sensor,so of course after about 3 steps they slide off and the pad goes dead...we had to make temporary rigs for the sensors with cardboard and tape...And changing a bad sensor....let's just say it is the only cabinet ever which requires you to disconnect all the molexes from the cabinet,flip the entire step/pad assembly over, and remove the entire bottom of the entire thing just to swap a sensor... |
Haha, you think that's bad, guess who was the play tester for those pads and told the designers of these new pads that they are inferior and should be redone? Then offered suggestions on how to correct these problems and was rejected...
If you only knew the true horrors that surrounded those crap boxes...
I truely feel sorry for you and anyone else that has these poor excuses for ITG2. At least the ITG2 kits are legit...
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MrFixIt
Trick Member
Joined: 25 Jan 2006
Location: At home....rocking out! |
| 306. Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 4:40 pm Post subject: |
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| Aoi-chan wrote: | | Haha, you think that's bad, guess who was the play tester for those pads and told the designers of these new pads that they are inferior and should be redone? Then offered suggestions on how to correct these problems and was rejected... |
Actually,I managed to get the pads working really good with my McGuyver "cardboard and tape" fix..people are getting 1000+ combos...I am trying to get our Tech. Dept. to fab me some specialized offset brackets so it will work like a DDR.
_________________
"Dude...he wasn't even supposed to BE here!"- Big Boss Man
-DDR:1st person to play on the new arrows
-ITG:1st person to play on the new arrows
-SC3:1st person to have a legend character |
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MrFixIt
Trick Member
Joined: 25 Jan 2006
Location: At home....rocking out! |
| 307. Posted: Tue Jan 31, 2006 3:54 pm Post subject: |
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| Aoi-chan wrote: | | Most people use double sided foam tape or rubber weatherstripping I've found works quite well too |
Our brackets are starting to be in need of a "resurfacing", if you will....have you had better results with the foam tape or the rubber weatherstripping? Generally how thick are you finding works best?
_________________
"Dude...he wasn't even supposed to BE here!"- Big Boss Man
-DDR:1st person to play on the new arrows
-ITG:1st person to play on the new arrows
-SC3:1st person to have a legend character |
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Aoi-chan
Vivid Member
Joined: 17 Apr 2003
Location: Wisconsin |
| 308. Posted: Tue Jan 31, 2006 6:22 pm Post subject: |
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| MrFixIt wrote: | | Aoi-chan wrote: | | Most people use double sided foam tape or rubber weatherstripping I've found works quite well too |
Our brackets are starting to be in need of a "resurfacing", if you will....have you had better results with the foam tape or the rubber weatherstripping? Generally how thick are you finding works best? |
I find that both work quite well. The rubber stripping needs to be ultra thin, 7/32" I think was the measurement? I'll have to double check, it's been a long while since I've bought any. Plus, the rubber usually needs to be trimmed down and can be tough to get an even match across 4 brackets.
Generally speaking I use the double sided foam tape almost exclusively now. It's a lot easier to use and maintain. The stuff I use has that green/white checkered peel off label, found at Radio Shack and now even places like Walmart and Walgreens sell it. There's also various widths available too. The Radio Shack version is a good width, as it's literally about the same width as the brackets themselves. With a "naked" bracket, I usually will use 2 pieces of this tape, one on top of the other. With a Japanese DDR cabinet that still has it's original padding left on the brackets, I'll only use one piece, if any, depending on the machine's quality.
Here's the one little trick I've found to making the foam tape work much better. If you only use the one side to adhesive to the bracket, I've seen most people either leave the green/white label still on the tape or they remove the label. Both cause problems! If you leave the green/white label on the tape, it causes the arrow to literally shift/move when stepped on, think of playing DDR on ice to give a visually example of the arrow's movements on these brackets. The player may not notice it, but it does move and can make for louder pads or other problems. The other idiots out there will remove the green/white label and literally have the tape sticking to the underside of the arrow. Which obviously causes major problems if you ever try to remove that arrow, which results in ripping the tape from the bracket and making a mess in the process.
The simple yet effective cure for this I've found is electrical tape. Remove the green/white label and put a piece of black electrical tape (or other non slip thin item) on the top of the tape/bracket. It cures the slipping on the arrow. That is one advantage the rubber weatherstripping has over the foam tape, no slip. It's your choice, good luck.
| MrFixIt wrote: | | Actually,I managed to get the pads working really good with my McGuyver "cardboard and tape" fix..people are getting 1000+ combos...I am trying to get our Tech. Dept. to fab me some specialized offset brackets so it will work like a DDR. |
Could you describe this "McGuyver cardboard and tape" fix in more detail? Sounds interesting.
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MrFixIt
Trick Member
Joined: 25 Jan 2006
Location: At home....rocking out! |
| 309. Posted: Tue Jan 31, 2006 6:41 pm Post subject: |
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| Aoi-chan wrote: | Could you describe this "McGuyver cardboard and tape" fix in more detail? Sounds interesting.
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Surely.....the converted cabinets like we have essentially have that setup where there is a little groove routed into the wood and the sensor just rests in it...they then put these small plastic circular nubs on the pads,but those were not attached to anything so after a game or two they would fall off and the pad would go dead. What we did was simply remove the plastic nubs then cut some small sections of cardboard about the size of a DDR bracket from a cardboard box and taped them to the sensors with a single loop of tape.It actually makes them really senstive and the corrugated makeup of the cardboard serves as a cushion for the sensor.
_________________
"Dude...he wasn't even supposed to BE here!"- Big Boss Man
-DDR:1st person to play on the new arrows
-ITG:1st person to play on the new arrows
-SC3:1st person to have a legend character |
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MrFixIt
Trick Member
Joined: 25 Jan 2006
Location: At home....rocking out! |
| 310. Posted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 7:38 pm Post subject: |
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I forgot to ask, generally how often do you find you need to re-pad the brackets?
_________________
"Dude...he wasn't even supposed to BE here!"- Big Boss Man
-DDR:1st person to play on the new arrows
-ITG:1st person to play on the new arrows
-SC3:1st person to have a legend character |
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Aoi-chan
Vivid Member
Joined: 17 Apr 2003
Location: Wisconsin |
| 311. Posted: Thu Feb 02, 2006 1:11 am Post subject: |
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| MrFixIt wrote: | | I forgot to ask, generally how often do you find you need to re-pad the brackets? |
Obviously, it depends on a few factors, such as how much play your machine gets, the quality of the padding used, etc.
With double sided foam tape, it can last many months or years in some cases. I don't really have the hard data to say how long, so ask me again in a few years  But judging on how well it's been holding up over the past few months, it "could" last that long. It also depends on how obsessed you are about your machine. If money and time are not problems, then you could re-pad your brackets every few weeks for top quality.
The rubber weatherstripping will last longer generally speaking. How much longer, hard to say for the same reasons stated above. Use your best judgement and just keep an eye on your brackets and arrow sensativity.
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Atticus
Trick Member
Joined: 24 Sep 2005
Location: *Points at map* Right there |
| 312. Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2006 12:13 pm Post subject: |
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Okay I have a couple questions and the more detailed the better (pics wold be excelent):
1) How do I put the machine on Free Play?
2) How do I put the machine on Event Mode?
3) How do I turn off Free Play?
4) How do I turn off Event Mode?
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Tomo_kun
Trick Member
Joined: 26 Oct 2003
Location: SE-WI. |
| 313. Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2006 4:12 pm Post subject: |
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| Atticus wrote: | | Questions: |
1. Go to Coin Options in the main menu.
2. With free play on, hold down the SERVICE button while you exit the menu (IIRC its detailed in the FAQ).
2. See number one.
3. I belive shutting the machine off removes event mode.
Keep in mind that durring event mode, holding the 3 user buttons will quit the game and go back to the main warning copywright screen. Its an easy restart basically.
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| Cutriss wrote: | | FLCL, God of Gods wrote: | | Uh... so when do we get the porn forum? |
If you can't find porn on the Internet, you're not trying. |
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yagsimit69
Trick Member
Joined: 05 Jan 2004
Location: rochester |
| 314. Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2006 4:39 pm Post subject: |
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| Tomo_kun wrote: |
3. I belive shutting the machine off removes event mode.
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that works, also if you go into the menu while in event mode and exit without holding the service button, it reverts to freeplay
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Visionary1002
Basic Member
Joined: 05 Dec 2004
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| 315. Posted: Sun Feb 12, 2006 12:37 am Post subject: |
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Situation: A single game cost $.75. Me and the locals want to convince the DDR Extreme owners to put doubles on 1 credit so it doesn't cost $1.50 but leave verses on 2 credits. So....
1. Is it possible to have joint premium for only doubles (not versus)?
2. How is it done (so we can show the owners how to)?
Thanks. |
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lildrchris25
Trick Member
Joined: 24 Jan 2002
Location: Houston, TX |
| 316. Posted: Sun Feb 12, 2006 12:56 am Post subject: |
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| Visionary1000 wrote: | Situation: A single game cost $.75. Me and the locals want to convince the DDR Extreme owners to put doubles on 1 credit so it doesn't cost $1.50 but leave verses on 2 credits. So....
1. Is it possible to have joint premium for only doubles (not versus)?
2. How is it done (so we can show the owners how to)?
Thanks. |
1. Not possible to have joint premium for only doubles.
2. It's in the main menu, under coin options? or something like that.
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MrFixIt
Trick Member
Joined: 25 Jan 2006
Location: At home....rocking out! |
| 317. Posted: Sun Feb 12, 2006 5:56 am Post subject: |
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Actually,I think what you want is called doubles premium,it should be under the coin options section of the menu.
_________________
"Dude...he wasn't even supposed to BE here!"- Big Boss Man
-DDR:1st person to play on the new arrows
-ITG:1st person to play on the new arrows
-SC3:1st person to have a legend character |
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Tomo_kun
Trick Member
Joined: 26 Oct 2003
Location: SE-WI. |
| 318. Posted: Sun Feb 12, 2006 7:49 am Post subject: |
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| MrFixIt wrote: | | Actually,I think what you want is called doubles premium,it should be under the coin options section of the menu. |
Nice try, but DDR doesnt have doubles premium. Only PiU (for the longest time) and ITG have it.
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| Cutriss wrote: | | FLCL, God of Gods wrote: | | Uh... so when do we get the porn forum? |
If you can't find porn on the Internet, you're not trying. |
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Visionary1002
Basic Member
Joined: 05 Dec 2004
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| 319. Posted: Sun Feb 12, 2006 11:57 am Post subject: |
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| Thanks for the info. That's unfortunate that DDR has no doubles premium. |
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