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FAQ about Arcade DDR
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thehud
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280. PostPosted: Sun Oct 09, 2005 9:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey guys,

I've got a good question. Well our DDR 3rd mix Korean, upgraded to 8th Mix machine had a rather rough trip back home one day. In short it took out the CD-ROM in the process. Well in diagnosing the error, we tried dip switch 4. We found that jewel of info on a web page. I know BIG mistake. Well it seems as though the CR-589-B is doing it's job, but we can't get past the darn 144 error code.

I've read that it takes a 2 disk set to get beyond this. Is that true? And where would I find it?

Thanks guys.
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RyogAkari
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281. PostPosted: Sun Oct 09, 2005 7:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I actually had this happen to me once. The arcade itself is amazingly resilient, but the CD-Rom drive was the thing to go.

It really honestly sounds like you broke your CD-Rom drive. CD-Rom drives will still appear to turn on even if they are broke, but anything can be damaged or misaligned.

I couldn't find you a cheap one when I briefly looked on ebay. It sounds like you know what to look for though.

Here is a rather expensive one, but it's atleast a replacement:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Dance-Dance-Revolution-DDR-Replacement-CD-Player_W0QQitemZ6214802479QQcategoryZ13718QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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kyaku
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282. PostPosted: Mon Oct 10, 2005 5:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thehud wrote:
Hey guys,

I've got a good question. Well our DDR 3rd mix Korean, upgraded to 8th Mix machine had a rather rough trip back home one day. In short it took out the CD-ROM in the process. Well in diagnosing the error, we tried dip switch 4.


I have NO experience with upgrades so I'd be afraid to guess. What happens when you set the dip switch back to off and restart it?
I have an operator manual which states that they will NOT boot with any of the dip switches off. (This would be on a non-upgraded Japan machine though.)
Looks like you have none of the upgrade instructions.?
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CreatorThomas
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283. PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2005 5:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

just info from my experience with ddr machine cd-rom drives, you can go to wal-mart and get one of those crappy lite-on cd burner/dvd-rom drives, which are usually $50 or less, and put it in your machine instead of getting one of those overpriced things on ebay. we used one of these in our japanese machine after the drive crapped out from the trip from japan to here.
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thehud
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284. PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2005 7:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys,

The replacement 589-B I got through ebay was DOA, so well...

CreatorThomas, what is the model # for the drive you used?

All dipswithch 4 does is bypass the boot from CD, but it looks like the dipswithc stuff is probably OK.

I've read on here that the Mitsumi CRMC-FX4821T will work as well, so I will probably give it a try next.

Thanks again!!
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RyogAkari
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285. PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2005 1:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wait.... your from Louisville KY? Dude, that's where I live!

What machine went down? Was it the UK one or is this a private machine? I have a spare CD-Rom drive that you can borrow untill you find a succesfull replacement.
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thehud
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286. PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2005 5:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Small world!!

Nah it's a semi private/ convention machine. It is actually in Cincinnati at the moment awaiting its next con.

Thanks for the offer though.
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CreatorThomas
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287. PostPosted: Wed Oct 12, 2005 5:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i don't remember the exact drive number, but looking at lite-on's website, it's model number was SOHC-5232K. i know it was a combo cd-rw drive/dvd-rom drive and it had a white faceplate. it's like the cheapest drive wal-mart carries (that's why we got it)
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RyogAkari
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288. PostPosted: Sat Oct 15, 2005 9:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Continuing my report on the green sensor.

There has been both good things and bad things that have come up with the use of the green sensor.

First the good. It seems that I was indeed right. They needed time to be broken in. I've had nothing but good reports from the regulars that play at the arcade machine. One came in last night that 2 people AAA'd Tears together along with other AAA's that they recieved seperately throughout their session. The sensors are definetely picking up in sensitivity as they are worn in.

Second, the bad. It seems that there are a couple places on my machine that simply refuse to register the channelbeat sensor. They did at the beginning, but a few days later, they simply gave out. It's not that the sensor is bad, its that the port will not register that sensor there anymore. It's really quite puzzling. I tried many different channelbeat sensors in the same port all with no luck. I also tried those same channelbeat sensors on different ports and they register fine. It might have something to do with my own individual machine, but I remain skeptical. So far, this has only happened on 3 ports and I don't anticipate it to happen anymore. For those spots I have simply put in a konami sensor back where it was.

Overall, the sensors are still quite amazing. There are no signs of freezes even beginning to break and the arrow registers no matter what part of the panel that you hit.
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Aoi-chan
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289. PostPosted: Tue Oct 25, 2005 7:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've delt with these green sensors quite a bit with varied results. Some of them come DOA, while others break a bit too quickly. Usually I find that there's a break somewhere in the wiring, since it's very tiny/thin wiring strip inside these sensors. I also talked with a Roxor rep this past weekend and he was telling me about the new and improved 'ITG' sensors that are supposed to be compatible with DDR machines. Does anybody have these sensors or know more about them? Pics would be awesome.


RyogAkari wrote:
Second, the bad. It seems that there are a couple places on my machine that simply refuse to register the channelbeat sensor. They did at the beginning, but a few days later, they simply gave out. It's not that the sensor is bad, its that the port will not register that sensor there anymore. It's really quite puzzling. I tried many different channelbeat sensors in the same port all with no luck. I also tried those same channelbeat sensors on different ports and they register fine. It might have something to do with my own individual machine, but I remain skeptical. So far, this has only happened on 3 ports and I don't anticipate it to happen anymore. For those spots I have simply put in a konami sensor back where it was.


I would try plugging those green sensors back into those 3 'bad' connectors in your machine. Then try crossing the wires on those green sensors by using one of the metal brackets. Touch the bracket to the exposed wires on the green sensor, by pulling out the sensor from it's casing and just cross the wires with the bracket. This should tell you if there's a signal being sent to the machine or not. I would try it in game mode and watch for the arrow light to pop on/off. If you're not getting anything by doing that, try testing that same green sensor in other connectors in both pads and separate arrows if necessary. Also, try different green sensors in this 'bad' connector.

If the problem follows that specific sensor, you know that sensor is bad. If the problem stays with that specific connector, then you've got a connector problem. If multiple different green sensors do not work in this connector, make sure this connector fits properly, both the molex casing and the molex pins inside. You may have different molex pins in these connectors that don't match up properly to the green sensors. If a grey sensor will work and a green sensor won't, my guess is this connector needs to be repinned and/or the molex replaced as well. Lastly, you might want to check and make sure the pins are fitting snug when connected. I've seen voltage issues before when the pins are not firmly connected.

Good luck and keep us posted.
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RyogAkari
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290. PostPosted: Wed Oct 26, 2005 9:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks as always Aoi. I'll get to work testing those sensors as soon as I can.


As far as I know about the ITG sensors they should work on a ddr machine. They are basically PIU sensors after all and piu sensors work on DDR. The only problem is the connector will be different since it will be a PIU connector.

The only problem I've heard with PIU sensors on a DDR machine is that the PIU sensors tend to "stick" after awhile. Basically when you press down on it and then release, it wont release the sensor until a little after. This is actually more problematic then a dead sensor because it garuntees a miss for the player if they go to try to hit that arrow again while it's stuck.
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Yeehaw McKickass
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291. PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2005 6:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ryog, that hasn't been my experience with PIU sensors in a DDR. Chalk it up to luck.

OH YEAH GUYS, DON'T THINK I'VE FORGOTTEN ABOUT THIS SUCKER. I just made a small update and I've been pretty freaking bored lately so I might acutally be going through this and the monitor guide again with a fine tooth comb.
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BigBroMario
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292. PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 12:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quick question.

A local arcade has a 7th Mix machine, I believe it's running off a bootlegged disc. My friends and I (two of my friends work at the arcade) want to purchase a 3rd Mix disc from Channelbeat and play it on the 7th Mix machine.

Is there any other procedures I need to go through besides putting in the 3rd Mix disc? I heard that I need the 3rd Mix ROM card, is that all? And if so, how much would the card run for?
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RyogAkari
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293. PostPosted: Thu Nov 24, 2005 7:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think the reason why no one has responded yet is because it's not possible to do what you are asking.

Now, if you wish to buy a 4th plus, 5th, 6th, or 8th kit, then you can downgrade/upgrade your machine by following the directions. However, you won't be able to get back 7th mix back without the proper materials.


Anyway, it's more difficult to switch mixes than you suggest and I doubt the arcade manager would submit to what it would require to change a mix.
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Aoi-chan
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294. PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2006 9:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not sure if anyone else has been keeping up on this topic, but I've been able to look inside an ITG 2 dedicated cabinet recently. Turns out the new ITG sensors look and feel exactly like the original Konami gray sensors or a Pump sensor, except the ITG ones are a lighter gray color.

Everything inside the arrow looks very similar to DDR's setup. Though I've never been inside a PIU cabinet, I would venture to guess these are almost the same design. The light is different too from a DDR cabinet, much longer, thinner and only one light if I remember correctly. Brackets are almost identical too.

If I can get some pics, I'll post em.
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xequar
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295. PostPosted: Tue Jan 24, 2006 5:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aoi-chan wrote:
Not sure if anyone else has been keeping up on this topic, but I've been able to look inside an ITG 2 dedicated cabinet recently. Turns out the new ITG sensors look and feel exactly like the original Konami gray sensors or a Pump sensor, except the ITG ones are a lighter gray color.

Everything inside the arrow looks very similar to DDR's setup. Though I've never been inside a PIU cabinet, I would venture to guess these are almost the same design. The light is different too from a DDR cabinet, much longer, thinner and only one light if I remember correctly. Brackets are almost identical too.

If I can get some pics, I'll post em.


Yes, they are pretty much the same sensors, although the ITG2 dedicabs seem to be much more sensitive to dirt buildup (they stick easier, I think), and only one, thin, long, fragile light running on a diagonal in the center of the arrow cavity. Maintenance is exactly the same as DDR, though.
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Yeehaw McKickass
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296. PostPosted: Tue Jan 24, 2006 2:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aoi-chan wrote:
Not sure if anyone else has been keeping up on this topic, but I've been able to look inside an ITG 2 dedicated cabinet recently. Turns out the new ITG sensors look and feel exactly like the original Konami gray sensors or a Pump sensor, except the ITG ones are a lighter gray color.

Everything inside the arrow looks very similar to DDR's setup. Though I've never been inside a PIU cabinet, I would venture to guess these are almost the same design. The light is different too from a DDR cabinet, much longer, thinner and only one light if I remember correctly. Brackets are almost identical too.

If I can get some pics, I'll post em.


Xequar's dead on about the innards being basically the same thing. One thing I've noticed about Andamiro's older PIU pads is that they screw up a bit less regularly.

Speaking of that, I'm going to be getting together with a tech at a local arcade soon about a possible improvement to the way the innards of the arrows work.
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MrFixIt
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297. PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2006 11:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey all, new guy here, but I have been doing regular repairs and maintainence on DDR's and ITG's as part of my job for the local arcade for awhile now,I think I can offer a little advice:

The green sensors,if they seem to go dead try this: Take the little sensor strip out of the rubber, take a neednose plier to the strip right where the wiring hooks into the plastic at the end of the strip, and crimp the heck of it; those wires tend to jiggle loose and alot of times this will restore a dead sensor to full working condition.

Sensors that seem to stick a little it usually best to start by making sure the track the sesnors go in and the bracket holding them in is not too tight,it cause the sensors to get pinched a little and be slow to release. Also make sure any spacer or pad being used to help make the pad more sensitive is not too thick for the same reason.You can also have this problem if you overtighten the screws on the 4 diagonal brackets that hold the step pad in; it forces the pad down enough that the sensors cannot return to the fully off state.
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vesper
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298. PostPosted: Sat Jan 28, 2006 10:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just went to an arcade for my first time to play DDR and the sign on the top said 3rd Mix but I think it was upgraded to Extreme. I saw songs like the Legend of Max, Bag, and Irresistiblement, but I thought Extreme had more songs like Maxx Unlimited and Max 300.

Would doing that arrow trick on the song wheel shown more songs, or was I just using an older version E19.gif
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Aoi-chan
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299. PostPosted: Sat Jan 28, 2006 12:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

vesper wrote:
I just went to an arcade for my first time to play DDR and the sign on the top said 3rd Mix but I think it was upgraded to Extreme. I saw songs like the Legend of Max, Bag, and Irresistiblement, but I thought Extreme had more songs like Maxx Unlimited and Max 300.

Would doing that arrow trick on the song wheel shown more songs, or was I just using an older version E19.gif


This machine just didn't change their marquee from 3rd to Extreme. Look at the title screen of the machine, it will tell you what mix it's playing. Also, you must hit the leftsel.gif rightsel.gif at the same time to cycle through the different song sorting options. This will give you access to the entire 240 songs on the machine. The default list does not and hence your confusion.


MrFixIt wrote:
The green sensors,if they seem to go dead try this: Take the little sensor strip out of the rubber, take a neednose plier to the strip right where the wiring hooks into the plastic at the end of the strip, and crimp the heck of it; those wires tend to jiggle loose and alot of times this will restore a dead sensor to full working condition.


I'll have to try that, I have a ton of these green sensors broken and laying around my house. I'll let you know if it works or not for me.


MrFixIt wrote:
Sensors that seem to stick a little it usually best to start by making sure the track the sesnors go in and the bracket holding them in is not too tight,it cause the sensors to get pinched a little and be slow to release.


Are you putting something inbetween the sensors and the brackets? The old business card trick can work, but I've had mixed results with it.

MrFixIt wrote:
Also make sure any spacer or pad being used to help make the pad more sensitive is not too thick for the same reason.You can also have this problem if you overtighten the screws on the 4 diagonal brackets that hold the step pad in; it forces the pad down enough that the sensors cannot return to the fully off state.


Beware of not tightening your screws down all the way. Too loose and you'll be missing screws in a matter of days. If that's causing sticky sensors, then remove some of the extra padding under the arrow. Most people use double sided foam tape or rubber weatherstripping I've found works quite well too. I'd trim that stuff down before loosing screws.
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