| View previous topic :: View next topic |
| Author |
Message |
Synaesthesia
Trick Member
Joined: 03 Apr 2005
Location: Crushing all deceivers, smashing non-believers |
5020.  Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2005 5:42 pm Post subject: |
 |
|
Some of you may remember that back when I built my metal pad, I had a problem with ghost-stepping caused by electromagnetic interference, which I patch-solved by wrapping my wires in aluminum foil. Now, my pad has been acting really goofy (acting like there's no controller connected upon game loading), so I think I'm going to use the circuit board of an El Cheap-o pad. My assumption is that these boards are more resistant to detecting small voltage drops as circuit closures (since they're connected to long pad "wires" that probably pick up interference as well). My question is should I go get some shielded wire to replace the wires in my pad (so that I don't have to wrap them in foil) or will the circuit board be enough by itself? Also, what's the best way to go about adding buttons to the pad control box (X, Start, Select, specifically)?
_________________
im a lasagna whale
G_G |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Marvel627
Trick Member
Joined: 07 Jun 2003
|
| 5021. Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2005 6:10 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| Quote: |
Hashit0k0 ^.^ â¶â Said:
Ah thank you very much!!! I get it now. I was just a little confused before. Also does n e one know how to solve my problem with the ripide videos???
This is the error: ERROR Problem connecting to tracker - <urlopen error (10060, "Operation timed Out") |
There have been problems with riptide's vid hosters on and off for a while... but they always get back up, if you cant get em in a week or so pm me and i can put mine up on usendit |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Quad_killeR ^.^
Trick Member
Joined: 05 Jul 2005
Location: Da Nati |
| 5022. Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2005 6:16 pm Post subject: |
|
|
k thanx!! 
_________________
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
stoli
Trick Member
Joined: 27 Mar 2005
Location: Southern NH |
| 5023. Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2005 7:00 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| mindless2 wrote: |
I am making your design and I am using the same madkatz pad for the controll box. Nice placing  I'm gonna use that now
Edit:
Update (12/15/2005): The Fellowes mouse pad that Target sells is much thinner now. I found one at Staples for $4.00 that was the right thickness.
Nice, a new staples just opened by me |
Hey Mindless,
The control box looks good and fits well where I put it. I considered centering it along the top but thought it might get kicked if it was near the up arrow. Since the o doesn't get used much, it made sense to keep the controller off to the right. Also, the Beatpad control box is wider than my border and I didn't want to have any of it sticking out so it overlaps the top of the o a little. Not a problem at all though. If you have wires running through the top border, be careful not to short them out with the screws you use to attach the controller to the pad. The way I run the wires in my pad leaves 3/4" of wood between the top surface and the wires so I bought screws that extended 1/2" out the bottom of the controller. No worries!
Regarding the mouse pad. The Staples near me had 3 different pads and each was a different thickness. The middle one worked well. It is just over 1/8" thick.
-Stoli
_________________
Last edited by stoli on Tue Dec 20, 2005 10:05 pm, edited 1 time in total |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
slvrshdw
Trick Member
Joined: 05 Jan 2005
|
| 5024. Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2005 7:16 pm Post subject: |
|
|
riptides pad is more like the arcade, but stolis design is smaller/more compact (if you have space issues)
i cant find my videos.. 
i think that the softpad circuit board should work fine.
and any pics on that collapsable pad..this sounds VERY good... 
and stoli, i wish i had as cool as someone like u to build me one for a gift  
...they look SOOO good..(way better than mine)
_________________
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
mindless2
Trick Member
Joined: 24 Oct 2005
|
| 5025. Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2005 7:36 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Stoli:
Yeah, thats what I thought about the placement too. Thats a good idea for the wire/screw placement. Where did you get your arrows printed? My inkjet can only print standard width (8.5"). I'm thinking like staples or office depot, just have them print it so the final image is 11"x11" |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Punkly Daft
Trick Member
Joined: 16 May 2005
Location: On a DDR Pad |
| 5026. Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2005 9:31 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| Marvel627 wrote: | | Quote: |
Hashit0k0 ^.^ â¶â Said:
Ah thank you very much!!! I get it now. I was just a little confused before. Also does n e one know how to solve my problem with the ripide videos???
This is the error: ERROR Problem connecting to tracker - <urlopen error (10060, "Operation timed Out") |
There have been problems with riptide's vid hosters on and off for a while... but they always get back up, if you cant get em in a week or so pm me and i can put mine up on usendit |
Hey, would you mind posting your videos on Usendit? I can't use the torrents either. (email them to strongnerd [at] gmail [dot] com) I seperated the words to ward off bots. Just replace [at] with "@" and [dot] with "." thanx)
_________________
"One more time we're gonna celebrate
Oh yeah, alright, don't stop the dancing"
-Daft Punk "One More Time" |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
stoli
Trick Member
Joined: 27 Mar 2005
Location: Southern NH |
| 5027. Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2005 9:56 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| mindless2 wrote: | Stoli:
Yeah, thats what I thought about the placement too. Thats a good idea for the wire/screw placement. Where did you get your arrows printed? My inkjet can only print standard width (8.5"). I'm thinking like staples or office depot, just have them print it so the final image is 11"x11" |
I had Kinkos do the arrows. I go a little overboard in that department but I think it's worth it. My plexi squares are 11x11 and I like to cover the entire square. I checked Staples and the largest paper they have is 11x13 but they can't print all the way to the edge, so you would be left with at least a 1/4" white border on two edges of each arrow. Kinkos has a 12" wide paper so I go with them. I modified the graphics so they are 11 1/4" square. I request that they don't trim the graphics. Then, when I am ready to put them on the pad, I place the graphic on a piece of cardboard, center the plexi on top of it and use an exacto knife to trim around the edges of the plexi (I wind up trimming about 1/8" extra ink all around). Then I use a small sharpie marker to trace each screw hole. Then, separate the perfectly sized graphic from the plexi and use a hole punch to make the screw holes in the places where I marked. Make sure you remember the orientation so when you make the plexi sandwich, the holes all line up perfectly (if you rotate the plexi or graphic 90 degrees or more, the holes will most likely not line up).
Also, I prefer the cardstock paper. It is not something they usually stock at Kinkos but they sometimes have some left over from another job and can order it if they don't. The thicker cardstock is not as flimsy as regular paper which may tend to get wavy in high humidity after a lot of use. The downside is that it is expensive. The cardstock is $3+ per print while the regular paper is $1.80 per color print. The cardstock has a glossy finish, which is not really necessary since you are overlaying plexi on top of it, but the colors are much brighter on the gloss. The regular paper does not come with a glossy finish and the arrow colors wind up to be more of a red than a pink and a much darker blue.
It's all a bit fussy, I know, but I figure if I can't do it right, I might as well not do it at all.
If you are trying to keep your budget low, Kinko's is not really the way to go. If you do go there, plan on spending at least $11 for the six color prints on oversized paper and over $20 for the glossy cardstock.
-Stoli
_________________
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
stoli
Trick Member
Joined: 27 Mar 2005
Location: Southern NH |
| 5028. Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2005 10:05 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Mindless,
I just realized that I posted the wrong thickness for that mouse pad. I meant to say that it is just over 1/8" thick. 5/32" to be exact. I will modify that post shortly.
-Stoli
_________________
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
waltzin
Basic Member
Joined: 20 Dec 2005
Location: New Zealand |
| 5029. Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2005 11:25 pm Post subject: xbox controller wiring |
|
|
hello, i've just made myself a dancemat with the help of the tutorials in this forum. However i am having some trouble with the wiring.
I am trying to wire it to my microsoft s-type controller. I have five wires going into the controller.. one for each arrow and a ground, and i have soldered them to what i think are the appropriate places in the controller.
Now, if i step on each individual arrow.. it works fine, or if i step on a a horizontal and a vertical arrow it works fine... but when i step on two horizontal ie left and right, or two vertical ie up down.. it doesn't register with the controller.
does anyone have any ideas why it would do this? Could the controller not support pressing these two directions at the same time?
thanks |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
gca4evtc1
Basic Member
Joined: 14 Dec 2005
Location: liverpool |
| 5030. Posted: Fri Dec 23, 2005 8:36 am Post subject: |
|
|
| haha since my dad is in da vendin and machines business i can get actuall arcaed ddr arrows and just put sheet mettal on the ottoms of them |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
HitokiriX
Trick Member
Joined: 27 Mar 2004
Location: Berwyn, PA |
| 5031. Posted: Sat Dec 24, 2005 11:09 am Post subject: |
|
|
| gca4evtc1 wrote: | | haha since my dad is in da vendin and machines business i can get actuall arcaed ddr arrows and just put sheet mettal on the ottoms of them |
That's....nice..... |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
t3h 3d
Trick Member
Joined: 17 Jun 2004
|
| 5032. Posted: Sun Dec 25, 2005 1:01 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| gca4evtc1 wrote: | | haha since my dad is in da vendin and machines business i can get actuall arcaed ddr arrows and just put sheet mettal on the ottoms of them |
Mabey daddy should get you a new keyboard. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Aflac
Trick Member
Joined: 28 Mar 2005
|
| 5033. Posted: Sun Dec 25, 2005 1:03 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| Synaesthesia wrote: | | Some of you may remember that back when I built my metal pad, I had a problem with ghost-stepping caused by electromagnetic interference, which I patch-solved by wrapping my wires in aluminum foil. Now, my pad has been acting really goofy (acting like there's no controller connected upon game loading), so I think I'm going to use the circuit board of an El Cheap-o pad. My assumption is that these boards are more resistant to detecting small voltage drops as circuit closures (since they're connected to long pad "wires" that probably pick up interference as well). My question is should I go get some shielded wire to replace the wires in my pad (so that I don't have to wrap them in foil) or will the circuit board be enough by itself? Also, what's the best way to go about adding buttons to the pad control box (X, Start, Select, specifically)? |
For my control box, I made a TerTerBox modification, with RadioShack buttons and parts (see riptide's site for link to the TTB instructions.). About your wire situation, I'm not completely sure about this but do the wires you're using not have plastic covering the outside? If so, you might want to consider changing to a plastic-covered wire, or Cat5 wire (however, Cat5 wire is a pain to strip). I use a Gamestop circuit board with Cat5 wire and a control box and everything works fine. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Synaesthesia
Trick Member
Joined: 03 Apr 2005
Location: Crushing all deceivers, smashing non-believers |
| 5034. Posted: Sun Dec 25, 2005 4:19 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Yeah, I used Cat5 in mine. The TV it's hooked to is pretty old, so it might put out more EMI than a newer one (that's all I can think of).
_________________
im a lasagna whale
G_G |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
VoijaRisa
Trick Member
Joined: 10 Dec 2005
Location: Lawrence KS |
| 5035. Posted: Mon Dec 26, 2005 4:35 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I started my pad today. Spent $147 at the hardware store and haven't gotten my arrows printed yet, nor have I gotten a controller to use (I decided not to go with the wireless control box I already have).
I'm using something similar to the Stoli design. But instead of the bolts going all the way through each step panel, they're only long enough to go into the wood piece underneath the graphic, which is countersunk enough to allow for the arrow to be stepped on. This way, there's nothing sticking up above the lucite and I can play bare footed without any worries.
I've taken about 20 pictures thus far and am only just finishing the wiring of the base. I'll be putting up a tutorial when I finish everything. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
HitokiriX
Trick Member
Joined: 27 Mar 2004
Location: Berwyn, PA |
| 5036. Posted: Mon Dec 26, 2005 10:27 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| VoijaRisa wrote: | I started my pad today. Spent $147 at the hardware store and haven't gotten my arrows printed yet, nor have I gotten a controller to use (I decided not to go with the wireless control box I already have).
I'm using something similar to the Stoli design. But instead of the bolts going all the way through each step panel, they're only long enough to go into the wood piece underneath the graphic, which is countersunk enough to allow for the arrow to be stepped on. This way, there's nothing sticking up above the lucite and I can play bare footed without any worries.
I've taken about 20 pictures thus far and am only just finishing the wiring of the base. I'll be putting up a tutorial when I finish everything. |
Good luck with the pad! |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
GoHerd35
Basic Member
Joined: 25 Dec 2005
|
| 5037. Posted: Tue Dec 27, 2005 12:45 am Post subject: |
|
|
Hmm. About time I head on up here and ask some questions.
1. I don't have much experience with tools and no soldering at all. I'm only 16. In reality, how hard would this be for me to build?
I was thinking of getting my stuff at Lowe's or HD and letting them cut the plywood.. How much do you think this would run?
Also, I've never really played DDR before, but in the times I have I loved it. Do you think this is a good route for me to take? |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
VoijaRisa
Trick Member
Joined: 10 Dec 2005
Location: Lawrence KS |
| 5038. Posted: Tue Dec 27, 2005 8:20 am Post subject: |
|
|
| GoHerd35 wrote: | | 1. I don't have much experience with tools and no soldering at all. I'm only 16. In reality, how hard would this be for me to build? |
If you're careful about planning and really check over everything carefully to make sure it's all being cut right and that you need to do it, it shouldn't be too bad.
| GoHerd35 wrote: | | I was thinking of getting my stuff at Lowe's or HD and letting them cut the plywood.. How much do you think this would run? |
I'm building the Stoli pad, and I've bought everything except the arrow graphics and a controller and have spent nearly $150.
As far as having them cut things, that's not always the best of ideas. Often, they're really sloppy about it. It's better to just use a table saw or a circular saw.
| GoHerd35 wrote: | | Also, I've never really played DDR before, but in the times I have I loved it. Do you think this is a good route for me to take? [/b] |
Really, I'd recommend getting a $20 soft pad first. That way, you can learn whether or not you really do like it. Then, if you do, you'll have the control box from that to use in a metal pad. They're much easier to do than taking apart a PS controller.
Hope that helps. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
StratusX
Basic Member
Joined: 26 Dec 2005
|
| 5039. Posted: Tue Dec 27, 2005 2:02 pm Post subject: Taking on the mighty task |
|
|
Hey guys.
Well I'm thinking about taking on the challenge of making my own dance pad, seeing as I've gone through 7 soft pads in 10 months. I plan on making a pad and a TerTer Box.
My only question is, and I know this has been asked many times (believe me I know. I've red all 252 pages of this forum):
WHICH PAD TO BUILD?!
The choices are between Homepad and riptide. I've read through Homepad's and have read and am downloading riptides videos. From yalls experiences:
1) Which is better to build?
2) Which has more of an arcade feel and why?
3) Which one has better stood the test of time?
Also, I have the documents for Patster's lighting on his pad. Riptide's instructions did not include the lighting, although it was made for lighting.
4) Are both Homepad's and Riptides moddable for lighting?
And if both are:
5) Does the arrow printout have to be transparent for the lights to shine through?
That about covers it for now. Thanks in advance.
-Ian- |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
Forums FAQ
Search
Memberlist
Usergroups
Register
Profile
Login to check your private messages
Login
My Chrome Pad Website
