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FAQ about Arcade DDR
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Ho-Man
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Location: Noblesville, IN
260. PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2005 9:24 am    Post subject: Re: Note 605 RTC RAM Reply with quote

rathstar wrote:
Thanks for the info. Yeah, my machine has a 5th mix security cart installed, his doesn't have any. We reinstalled his original installation and got the machine up and running, but he still wants the disc with the other mods. From your write-up, it sounds like it's possible to turn the machine off, flip the DIP4, swap the discs, and turn the machine back on. Does that sound right? Thanks for all the helpful information :)

The machine may fail to boot because there are some hacks to GAME.DAT that allow the bootleg to work with the security bypass. Often times these are on the GAME disc of a two disc bootleg, but not on the INSTALL disc. So what will happen is that the original data is written to the ONBOARD ROMs. When you try to boot ONBOARD, all copy protection goodness works the way it's supposed to and...no boot.

You can try it out though. It might work. If it doesn't work though, you'll have to make the edits to enable the additional mods on his GAME disc yourself. I don't have a lot of experience with the one disc bootlegs, so I haven't done a lot of testing to be able to give you a definitive answer. Plus most of the work I've done in this vein was done over a year ago and I've forgotten a lot of it. :P
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Rahzel
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261. PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2005 6:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just bought some replacement sensors for the DDR machine in the Rec Room in Urbana, IL. I ordered them from Betson Imperial and paid $30 for each. I was under the impression that I would be ordering Official gray sensors made by Konami (as, and correct me if I'm wrong, Betson is Konami's official USA distributor?). However, when the sensors arrived, they looked suspiciously like the green Channelbeat sensors.

I was unable to reach Betson for an explanation on this matter. Did they just make a mistake and sent me the green sensors instead of the gray ones, or have they run out of official gray sensors and are now using the same green sensors that Channelbeat is using? Has anyone else had a similar experience ordering sensors from Betson?

Thanks,
Rahzel
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Tomo_kun
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262. PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2005 6:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I belive a couple pages back someone mentioned that they started sending out the green ones. I guess they ran out of the grey ones.
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Rahzel
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263. PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2005 7:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay, do any parts vendors have the gray ones left then? One of the green ones we got didn't even work out of the box (i'm pretty sure I installed it correctly) so I'd really like to get my hands on the gray ones.
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Tomo_kun
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264. PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2005 8:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

AFAIK, no. And those green ones should work, its just a standard hot/cold switch.
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RyogAkari
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265. PostPosted: Tue Aug 09, 2005 10:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You know,

I would be interested in finding out if the green sensors are official in some way. The switch from the gray ones to the green ones came suspiciously close to the time that Dancing Stage Fusion came out.

I mean, sure, why not? Perhaps these sensors are better in some way. From descriptions that I have recieved from people the only differences seem to be that they are green and are slightly shorter.

The shortness of the sensor can actually be a plus! Because of how the bracket is designed, it only hits a small portion of the sensor. A sensor can be "dead" in one place, and still work in another. If you are an arcade owner and are as concerned about the status of your machine as I am, I would suggest getting the new green sensors, then use the benefit of being able to adjust where the sensor is being hit in the machine every month or so.

I'm placing an order with Ho-Man (I'm getting 10 sensors, he's getting a new set of 32) to channelbeat pretty soon. I'll update on how good/bad the sensors seem to be.
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Rahzel
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266. PostPosted: Tue Aug 09, 2005 10:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did notice two differences between the green and gray sensors, besides the color and shortness. One was that there was more "air" space between the electronic pressure register device and the rubber protective material. Two was that the outer rubber shell comes off of the pressure register device VERY easily, whereas the gray sensors are one unseparatable unit.

Please let us know how the green channelbeat sensors work out for you guys. We had one green sensor arrive DOA on us, and so I'm skeptical of these right out of the gate.
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Yeehaw McKickass
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267. PostPosted: Tue Aug 09, 2005 1:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you guys are really skeptical about the Green sensors you can always order PIU sensors and just splice the wiring together.

PIU sensors tend to be a bit longer, but they're about the same quality as the old grey DDR sensors.
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kyaku
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268. PostPosted: Thu Aug 11, 2005 9:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

[sandwedge]Rahzel wrote:
I just bought some replacement sensors for the DDR machine in the Rec Room in Urbana, IL. I ordered them from Betson Imperial and paid $30 for each. I was under the impression that I would be ordering Official gray sensors made by Konami (as, and correct me if I'm wrong, Betson is Konami's official USA distributor?). However, when the sensors arrived, they looked suspiciously like the green Channelbeat sensors.


I just bought a couple spare sensors from a small arcade company that owns several DDRs and I was told that Konami isn't making the gray ones any more so you can't get NEW gray sensors. They sold me a used one (that they had tested as good) and a new trimmed down PUI sensor.

Send the green one back to Betson; they should replace it.
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Daddead324
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269. PostPosted: Sat Sep 10, 2005 1:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will look in to this
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kyaku
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270. PostPosted: Thu Sep 22, 2005 5:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aoi-chan wrote:
snip/
Now, we had replaced the Cd-rom in this machine a few months back. It originally had a Mitsumi (Model No. CRMC-FX4821T) Cd-rom. I replaced the drive (with many thanks to RyogAkari) with a Matsushita-Kotobuki (Model No. CR-594-C) ... /snip


Any more tips on what to expect when I pull this drive out of our extreme? Someone else told me a 52x IDE would work but I'm not sure. Anyone know the pin count? 40?

Ryog? erm.gif

I think it's just dirt but I want to be ready in case I destroy it! E4.gif

BTW, It freezes sometimes while loading songs with the, for example, "second stage" screen up. It has always loaded some things very slowly, like the challange round seems to take forever. Every now and then I get a error something like "CDROM initialization failed". It boots fine; everything checks out "OK". It might go for hours then it starts the freeze/ slow load again. The inside of the machine is clean so I'm thinking dirty CDROM. ?
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Yeehaw McKickass
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271. PostPosted: Thu Sep 22, 2005 9:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Standard CD-ROM drive (IDE) no less than 32x is what you need. Check your voltages too.
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RyogAkari
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272. PostPosted: Fri Sep 23, 2005 5:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeehaw McKickass wrote:
Standard CD-ROM drive (IDE) no less than 32x is what you need. Check your voltages too.


Hate to beg your pardon, sir, but no.

First off. Not just any 32x cd rom drive and up will work. I've tried quite a few, and had them not work for me.

There are a few models out there that work. The only one that I'm certain of is the Panasonic CR series 24x or above (note that a 24x actually will work!)

Its best to get a 32x or a 48x.

The CD-Rom drive is located in the big metal box on the right middle standing vertically in a japanese machine and I believe in the top middle on a korean machine. If you have never messed around with the machine before, there will be a small plate in the way of the cd rom drive that you will need to unscrew.

Some tips for taking apart the metal box that hosts the system board. Remove the jamma carefully from the system. Avoid pulling on the wires to get it out if possible. The other connections have a place where you press in on the middle to unlatch it. Some messing around with will easily have you figuring out how to do it.

Remove the Flash card and security cart (if present) first. Then unscrew the sides. Lift up the top slowly. You will see that the cd rom drive hovers above the system board on the top metal plate. Disconnect the IDE cable from the cd rom drive and carefully set it down. Unscrew only the components necessary to take out the CD rom drive. You can put this CD rom drive in a computer and then use a Cleaning CD to clean off the lens. You wont be able to do this in the machien because the machine would not be able to read the program of the CD that cleans it. This should be all that is necessary. You'll notice that your CD Rom drive works a whole lot better after cleaning it, but purchasing a new CD Rom drive is also a wise move.

Here are two options.

You can get ripped off by this guy:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Dance-Dance-Revolution-DDR-Replacement-CD-Player_W0QQitemZ6211221309QQcategoryZ13718QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


Or you can buy one from this guy:
http://cgi.ebay.com/PANASONIC-CR-594-C-48X-EIDE-INT-CD-ROM-DRIVE-ADEAL_W0QQitemZ5246642404QQcategoryZ41804QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


Note that you probably dont even need to bid on the second guy's. I've bought 2 or 3 drives from this guy and recommended his drives to many others. Just email him and see if he'll give you a flat rate for a purchase. He seems to have an endless amount of them.

Enjoy!
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kyaku
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273. PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2005 5:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good news, bad news, random info and thoughts.

The good news is that I was able to pull our cd rom, take it apart and clean it (but it wasn't very dirty at all). Then, I was able to put it all back together and the machine booted just fine. (thanks to ryog, yeehaw and anyone I've forgotten for the tips!). Bad news is that we got one and a partial game out it before it froze on the "second stage" screen again.

Our extreme has a CR-583-J CD ROM with a date of 2/97 in it. 8X speed! ; no wonder it sometimes loads slower than other machines that I've seen. Guess we have one of the first ones made?!?

Anyway, I've spent most of the day today researching and here's some of what I've found:

"Matshita is short for Matsushita Electric Industrial Co Ltd., sometimes known as Matsushita-Kotobuki Electronics Industries Ltd. which is long for Panasonic." "... CD-ROMs beginning with the letters "CR", which means that Panasonic manufactured your drive and plunked it in an OEM PC like Gateway or Dell"
Also they are in some HP and Apple computers and some are sold under the "Creative" label. Note the "some" part.

These are only my musings from the info I've seen:
I still can't figure out what drives the CD ROM or where it's stored but it looks like there were three original drivers for models CR-583,4,5,6,7,8,9 and CR-593 and 4 - windows, DOS or OS/2. ALL the CR models have now been discontinued. CR-594 seems to be a popular choice; I saw it mentioned several times on industry arcade repair sites (and I even saw it on one little board that linked to this board as a reference!). One site had the 594 listed as a replacement which was for sale at something like $100. Also, I saw it mentioned that the CD-ROMs go out frequently (guess it's time after all the years of hard use they've had). Anyway, I've decided that if I'm going to buy a another CD ROM, I might as well go for the newest one. Just hope it works.

Also, I checked the first ebay link given by Ryog above and noticed that it is a 52x36(or32?)x52 drive. That's the same thing that my friendly-arcade-machine-repair buddy told me to go out and buy off the shelf. I don't know enough about CD ROMs or have the spare cash to risk though. (and I didn't dare quiz 'buddy' too much; he was already giving me free info off the top of his head).
It would be really nice to find out which ones of these would work.

Hope someone finds this useful but I'd like to post my disclaimer "Everything you see on the net IS true".
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RyogAkari
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274. PostPosted: Sun Sep 25, 2005 7:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The link that I gave you was actually to a new CD-Rom drive.

What happens is massive amounts of computers were made by certain companies, and when they failed to sell all of their products, they wholesaled the computers to parts distributors that sell the parts inside of the computer. The CD-Rom drive has never been used, only has sat inside a case for awhile. Anyway, I would still strongly recommend getting it. I personally use the CD-Rom drives that this guy sells.

Anyway, I recieved my shipment from Channelbeat yesterday and went on a big cleaning fest on my machine today and installed the new sensors. I only bought ten new one's where Ho-man bought a set of 32. Out of my sensors that I installed I didn't have any bad luck with dead ones, but unfortunately didnt have enough time to test them all. The sensors are fatter than the konami ones and are slightly shorter. The sensors worked amazingly for the few times that I got to play with them. They are amazingly responsive and are 100% consistent. They hold freezes really nicely too! I'll do a progress report a few weeks later after the sensors have had a chance to break themselves in. As for right now, they get my official seal of quality.
Oh, and the bar pads that they sell are kinda nice too.
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Ho-Man
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275. PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2005 6:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Loading slowness, errors, and freezes could be caused by a bad or dirty disc. These older CD-ROM drives are a lot less forgiving than modern ones in what they can reliably read. Try burning a copy of your disc on various types of media and see if you get any better results. Old CD-ROM drives had more truoble with burns and would often work better with some formulations or brands of media than others. Experiment to find out what works best for you.

As for the sensors, the new ones are probably fatter because they haven't spent the last several years being smashed under the weight of people playing. ;) I'm excited to get my set in the machine. I anticipate they will negate the need for the "business card mod."
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kyaku
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276. PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2005 7:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

RyogAkari wrote:
The link that I gave you was actually to a new CD-Rom drive.


Ryog, I meant that I'd rather get the 594 as compared to the older models. I was just saying that none of these drives are in current production. ALSO, you don't happen to know what the volatge to the flash card is, do you? E1.gif

Ho, I checked the CD while I had it out. It only had one tiny scratch (which I thought was a little piece of fuzz at first). I am going to try to burn a back-up the next time I take it out.

A huge thanks to both of you two for the help! E4.gif

Fingers crossed; new drive is on the way.
Beverly
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kyj197
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277. PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2005 11:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

After browsing the internet for 2 hours. I found the guy that sells the arcade sensors at the lowest price! Of course, it is from ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Dance-DDR-Pump-It-Up-In-The-groove-Floor-Sesors-set-1_W0QQitemZ6212197263QQcategoryZ3945QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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RyogAkari
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278. PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2005 5:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is a low down report on the green sensor.


When I initially installed the green sensors in my machine the i/o check board reported that 2 of the sensors were inactive. Of course I thought that this meant that they were dead. I took them out and played with them a little and then they started responding on the i/o board. Since then I haven't had any problems with them.

The green sensor case is fat. It doesnt fit in the slot like the konami sensors do. But, once it's in there it is snug and responsive.

I watched dozens of people play with the new sensors to get a judgement of how they were doing. At our university club meeting the second day the sensors were installed we had around 10 AAA's, 2 dozen SDG AA's, and if you wanted to full combo a song, you pretty much had the option of doing it. I noticed however, in really really fast play, and beginner people there seemed to be an awful lot of misses. My conclusion after watching more was that the green sensor is simply not as sensitive as the original sensor. In other words, you have to press slightly harder for it to register. But, the really cool thing about the sensors is that they never fail to hold a freeze, even if you bob up and down on them. That is the major advantage to having them. The other thing I noticed is that the green sensors seemed to get more sensitive as people played more on them. Essentially, they need to be "broken in".

My overall grade? I'd give them a B+. They aren't nearly as sensitive so that can detract really light players and the people that are starting out, but for your regular players, they will only notice improvement.

If you want the best of both worlds here is my suggestion if you think you would like to purchase some of these as replacements in the near future. Take your best Konami sensors and line them on the inside sensor slots of each panel (example, the down sensor of the up arrow, the left sensor of the right arrow, the up sensor of the down arrow and the right sensor of the left arrow). Next, start replacing sensors with the channelbeat sensors starting with the outside sensors and work your way in. This will give each panel the best of both worlds from both types of sensors.

I don't want to give a bad impression by being critical of the green sensor. They simply are really good. I've recieved nothing but compliments since I made my final adjustments to my machine. They really are a blessing, and you will notice leaps and bounds in improvement in your own machine with them.
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Ho-Man
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279. PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2005 7:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's a theory for you on the sensitivity of the green sensors. If the fit in the holder sis very snug, it may be deforming the sensor slightly. In other words, the holder is squeezing the sides of it and causing it to bulge up. This would create slightly more distance that it would need to be depressed to be activated. The "break in" period you mentioned may be softening up the sensor jacket (the green rubbery stuff) and getting the sensor to settle into the holder. It's probably stiffer and less flexible when it's brand new.

I doubt many of us have ever played on brand new Konami (gray) sensors. For all we know, they may have the same issues.
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