Forums FAQForums FAQ   SearchSearch   MemberlistMemberlist   UsergroupsUsergroups   RegisterRegister   ProfileProfile   Login to check your private messagesLogin to check your private messages   LoginLogin 

My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)
Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3 ... 232, 233, 234 ... 339, 340, 341  Next  
This topic is locked you cannot edit posts or make replies    DDR Freak Forum Index -> Bemani Controllers
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
Paramount X
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 15 Jun 2005
4640. PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2005 8:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok. I see so when I make mines. All the ground wires of wach arrow panel will have to be soldered to a single point ?
Back to top
View users profile Send private message
Natural Killer
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 22 May 2005
Location: Wallingford, Conn.
4641. PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2005 12:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just figured I'd show off my home-made DDR platform w/ bar...

It isn't finished yet...still needs to be screwed down and I will most likely slap some paint on it eventually. This is basically what it will look like though...

http://public.fotki.com/NaturalKiller/dance_dance_revolution/ddr_platform.html


Tell me what you think!
Back to top
View users profile Send private message
Paramount X
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 15 Jun 2005
4642. PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2005 1:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

where you get the arrow grapics from. Or is that RO AB
It look like RO AB
But it look ok.
Back to top
View users profile Send private message
Natural Killer
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 22 May 2005
Location: Wallingford, Conn.
4643. PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2005 1:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No no... haha its definitly an AB... I know this is the "Homemade pad thread" but I just figured I'd put that in this thread since the platform and bar is home made.
Back to top
View users profile Send private message
KazeNoKoneko
Basic Member
Basic Member


Joined: 25 Jul 2005
4644. PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2005 6:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm still a few weeks away from any actual construction, but have been designing a few things to possibly make a pad more like I think one should work. I've got a few questions tho...

I'm looking at creating some spring powered switches under the panels. I'm looking at about 4lbs for the 1/4th inch compression I am aiming for. With 4 of these per panel that would be about 16lbs of force to activate the switch, any comments on that? I'm also looking at using springs for all of the contacts aswell to help cut back on noise and stress on the panels.

I'd also like to build a pad with a swappable controller box, but seeing how I've not seen many pads that do this I have to wonder how well it would work. My old pad used a $3 joypad for the computer, but since I only played on my computer with my hardpad it was fine. I'm looking at trying to support all PC/XBox/PS, but would be most willing to drop the PS. Hoping to use nice little male/female plugs to swap out the diffrent controllers.

I'm also trying to work 6 panels into the pad, with the up-left/right doubling as start/back with a switch to toggle the functions.

Finally I'm looking at lighting the pads, prolly with cathodes. Would a simple relay along the ground coming from each arrow be enough to flip the lights, or am I not thinking enough about this? I'm a CSE major, not EE E10.gif

I'm working on a prototype of the switch I want, and I'll be taking pictures of it as I go. I'm hoping it'll give better results than a simple screw-contact system without requiring extra electronics to function. The downside is I'm looking at an extra $20 or so for the springs and metal I'm using.

Any thoughts and comments are very much welcome, as I'm trying to brainstorm as much as possible before I start to commit cash to this project.
Back to top
View users profile Send private message
tolookah
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 21 Sep 2003
Location: The People's Republic of Wesdives.
4645. PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2005 7:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

EE reply about relays:
if you want to use relays, have them be your switches connected to the controller, then you dont have to figure out how you are going to draw enough current for the relays, and you can power the relays off some external supply (like the one you are using for your cathodes)

As for the compression, If you are going for realism, you don't want that much compression while playing (it disorients your feet a little)... but that is personal opinion.

Swapable controller: look at an xbox to USB converter for that, its the same wiring, and i think there are drivers out for xbox DDR pads (if not, I get to push them on that)
You may look at DB9 connectors, it allows for a ground wire and 8 buttons (its the same form as the serial plug on your computer, nine pins, row of 4 and 5) and you can buy those connectors for less than a buck a piece.

I look forward to seeing that prototype

my 2 cents.
_________________
Aim: Tolookah
MSN: Tolookah
XBox: Tolookah
DDRPad Soldering and electrical Help: http://www.tolookah.net/DDR/ As hooded_paladin put it: "Currently, help for Beatpad Pro, official Sony Playstation Controller and ANY controller unless you are extremely stupid or lazy."
Back to top
View users profile Send private message Visit posters website AOL Instant Messenger MSN Messenger
KazeNoKoneko
Basic Member
Basic Member


Joined: 25 Jul 2005
4646. PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2005 11:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've thought about using weatherstripping or rubber of some sort instead of springs to lower how far the panel compresses. I've even through about some miniture garden hoses I saw a while back. Not quite sure how it would work out tho.

About how much do most pad's panels compress? I'm thinking that I could match any number given to me and keep the force required to activate the panels constant by using diffrent numbers and lengths of springs. Hopefully I can keep it simple enough that anyone that wants to do this can as an alternetive to what is currently used.

And by having the relays as the switch to the controller I assume you mean to basicly turn them around and have the panel activate the lights and the relays, then the relays are what will complete the controller circuit?

If these switches of mine work I might just double them up to save myself the trouble. Shouldn't sacrifice any sensitivity and should be fairly simple to add-on later... could even put in the second ones right now and have them do nothing.
Back to top
View users profile Send private message
squeakypants
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 31 Jul 2005
4647. PostPosted: Sat Aug 06, 2005 8:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If I make a metal pad I'll make a tutorial that isn't a pain to read or a video that isn't boring as hell (no offense to those who have made tutorials/videos already, as my design would be learned off yours).

Would it be possible to use a soft pad (even if it is broken) to create the hard pad?
Back to top
View users profile Send private message
Paramount X
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 15 Jun 2005
4648. PostPosted: Sat Aug 06, 2005 11:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

if the wiring isn't messed up
Back to top
View users profile Send private message
Heffenfeffer
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 22 Apr 2002
Location: Las Cruces, NM
4649. PostPosted: Sat Aug 06, 2005 12:25 pm    Post subject: Distinctly low-tech Reply with quote

KazeNoKoneko wrote:
I've thought about using weatherstripping or rubber of some sort instead of springs to lower how far the panel compresses. I've even through about some miniture garden hoses I saw a while back. Not quite sure how it would work out tho.

About how much do most pad's panels compress? I'm thinking that I could match any number given to me and keep the force required to activate the panels constant by using diffrent numbers and lengths of springs. Hopefully I can keep it simple enough that anyone that wants to do this can as an alternetive to what is currently used.

And by having the relays as the switch to the controller I assume you mean to basicly turn them around and have the panel activate the lights and the relays, then the relays are what will complete the controller circuit?

If these switches of mine work I might just double them up to save myself the trouble. Shouldn't sacrifice any sensitivity and should be fairly simple to add-on later... could even put in the second ones right now and have them do nothing.


Weather stripping always worked for me. Even eight months later they're still springing back, and if they ever do go flat, it's only $3 a roll to replace it. As far as compression goes, there's not too much at all - I'd say less than 1/16". Good luck getting your lights to work! I was interested in lights, but after about month 6 on construction (I was very occupied with other things, like engagement) I just wanted a working pad. Thus, right now my pad has a very 'it just works' mentality to it. E4.gif

Squeakypants - Yeah, you can use the control box from a soft pad, (and I recommend that as a matter of fact, since regular controllers tend to fry in a new pad environment) but not much else. The panel stuff isn't nearly as durable as the sheet metal contacts that 90% of homebuilt pads have.
_________________
"If something should happen to me, all the world's women will grieve!" - Edgar Rene Figaro

"Your charisma exceeds that of mortal men. Many would lay down their lives for you." - Fall-From-Grace
Back to top
View users profile Send private message AOL Instant Messenger
stoli
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 27 Mar 2005
Location: Southern NH
4650. PostPosted: Sat Aug 06, 2005 12:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

squeakypants wrote:
If I make a metal pad I'll make a tutorial that isn't a pain to read or a video that isn't boring as hell (no offense to those who have made tutorials/videos already, as my design would be learned off yours).

Would it be possible to use a soft pad (even if it is broken) to create the hard pad?


Sorry that all the time and effort that the many members on this forum have contributed, before you showed up, are boring you. I think you probably meant to visit a professional pad builder's site and have stumbled upon this site by accident. This site is just a collection of comments from people who are genuinely interested in helping others like them create a functioning ddr pad without spending a lot of money. The site is free and the members are not paid to create comprehensive, professional tutorials and riveting videos for the sole purpose of keeping a new member like yourself glued to their monitor with detailed, step-by-step instructions designed for even a 5 year old to follow.

I know you might find it monotonous and "boring", and probably "painful" to read, but you will find the answer to your question if you skim through the last few months of posts.

-Stoli
_________________


Last edited by stoli on Sun Aug 21, 2005 8:22 am, edited 1 time in total
Back to top
View users profile Send private message Visit posters website
tolookah
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 21 Sep 2003
Location: The People's Republic of Wesdives.
4651. PostPosted: Sat Aug 06, 2005 12:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stoli: awesome.

and squeaky: check the last few pages (no more than 10) and your answer is there.
_________________
Aim: Tolookah
MSN: Tolookah
XBox: Tolookah
DDRPad Soldering and electrical Help: http://www.tolookah.net/DDR/ As hooded_paladin put it: "Currently, help for Beatpad Pro, official Sony Playstation Controller and ANY controller unless you are extremely stupid or lazy."
Back to top
View users profile Send private message Visit posters website AOL Instant Messenger MSN Messenger
marcan
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 28 Jul 2005
4652. PostPosted: Sat Aug 06, 2005 3:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My pad is going nicely E1.gif It now handles the analog values, stores and reads data from EEPROM, and handles the several modes. Currently missing: saving new threshold values, screensaver handling. Today I'll finish the screensaver part. I just wrote a 212-step screensaver table for flashing the lights to a bunch of patterns - You'll get bored of looking at it before you even see the complete cycle E4.gif photos soon!
Back to top
View users profile Send private message Send email
marcan
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 28 Jul 2005
4653. PostPosted: Sat Aug 06, 2005 5:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here it is! E4.gif


Click for a larger image

And now for a video of the "screensaver" thingy (flashing the lights to show off):

http://marcansoft.com/subidos/videos/sgdp-ss.avi

I've kept the bitrate low to make the file a manageable size, but you don't need much bitrate to see flashing lights laugh.gif

Update: I (think I have) officially finished the firmware. It now stores thresholds, handles auto screensaver turn-on and turn-off, etc.

By the way, the screensaver turn-on delay (when nothing is pressed) is of 42 seconds. Does that seems right to you guys? Seems OK to me, but I'd like opinions E10.gif (42 seconds is technically easy, because I use the same timer as for the actual screensaver. The screensaver runs 6 "beats" per second, and for the turn-on timer I use an 8-bit register which overflows after 256 counts. 256/6=42. And 42 seems cooler too because it is the answer to life, the universe, and everything laugh.gif (which is why I picked it for the EEPROM ID byte too. Curiously it also showed up here)). It can be changed with some code though.
Back to top
View users profile Send private message Send email
deM'
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 10 Apr 2005
Location: Southington CT
4654. PostPosted: Sat Aug 06, 2005 7:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Marcan, you are a god.

What do you need for inputs with that? Or is it just off of a timer chip?

If you dont need any complex inputs would you ever consider marketing either a pcboard of that or the schematic? Because i would definatly be interested, thats amazing
Back to top
View users profile Send private message AOL Instant Messenger
marcan
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 28 Jul 2005
4655. PostPosted: Sat Aug 06, 2005 7:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The thingy itself is a microcontroller, which acts as an emulator of a PS2 pad. When not in use, it flashes the controller lights in patterns. I do not understand what you mean by "inputs". Inputs from the buttons? or from what? BTW, I'll release schematic, source code, etc as soon as it is complete E13.gif


OK, now comes the fscking point in every project's timeline where everything works and BAM - something does not work. The PS2 no longer detects the pic as a proper pad. Further investigation reveals that it is not receiving ATTENTION signals from the pad. Further investigation forcing the attention signal to ground reveals that it was probably pulled up inside, for unknown causes since it (was supposed to be) set as an input. Further investigation reveals I just fried the whole PORTB. Great. New microcontroller needed. No clue what happened, but I'll investigate. At least I'll have some fun blowing up the microcontroller with some large capacitors or something riiight.gif
Back to top
View users profile Send private message Send email
deM'
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 10 Apr 2005
Location: Southington CT
4656. PostPosted: Sat Aug 06, 2005 8:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm going to *Bump* the topic of lighting using solely transistors, has anyone managed it yet?

Or at least any way of lighting without using relays or a seperate physicall switch
Back to top
View users profile Send private message AOL Instant Messenger
tolookah
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 21 Sep 2003
Location: The People's Republic of Wesdives.
4657. PostPosted: Sat Aug 06, 2005 8:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anyone know by chance where the 750mA fuse is connected inside the playstation? I am trying to figure out if the fuse is on the 5v line or on the ground line, as the playstation also has a 9V line for the motors on the dualshock controllers that I am curious about.

Demonic: some of us are working on different lighting setups, i sent a schematic to someone else asking for it, they are going to test it, and if it works, let me know, if it does, it can be posted, would require a 9v supply outside the system.

I myself am working on a system to not need a power supply at all, but I need information on that dualshock 9volt lead to know if i can even do it. (I am also waiting on the programmer to program my chips, the code is 90% written) and that is due in on the 20th (new chips, need a programmer to do it)
When I am done, I hope to sell the boards with everything needed minus the cabling for the whole lighting and controller solution. I am looking at end of August time for a complete prototype.
_________________
Aim: Tolookah
MSN: Tolookah
XBox: Tolookah
DDRPad Soldering and electrical Help: http://www.tolookah.net/DDR/ As hooded_paladin put it: "Currently, help for Beatpad Pro, official Sony Playstation Controller and ANY controller unless you are extremely stupid or lazy."
Back to top
View users profile Send private message Visit posters website AOL Instant Messenger MSN Messenger
marcan
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 28 Jul 2005
4658. PostPosted: Sat Aug 06, 2005 8:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tolookah wrote:
Anyone know by chance where the 750mA fuse is connected inside the playstation? I am trying to figure out if the fuse is on the 5v line or on the ground line, as the playstation also has a 9V line for the motors on the dualshock controllers that I am curious about.


Most probably, on the 5v line. The 8V (it is 8V at least on the PS2) fuse IS on the 8v line definitely (I blew it two times already). I run my PIC from the 8V line currently (with a 7805) because on the PS2 the 5V line only carries 3.3V and the opamps will not like that. Plan for that voltage to work too, since it's what the PS2 uses (and the official controllers are spec'd to run at it).

I plan to have a selectable switch to power from the 5V line if it actually does carry 5V (for e.g. USB adapters, since there is no 9V line on those), or to use a 7805 and power from the rumble/dualshock 8v/9v line.

WRT lighting using transistors, that's easy. Just use MOSFETs, they act like switches for all practical purposes (reeeal low ON resistance). Or, as said earlier, you could use the physical switch for lighting and use a transistor for driving the controller board. In my setup, I'll use MOSFETs on the output lines of the microcontroller to driver sets of white LEDs.

Aah, the sweet smell of burning IC packaging... Time to go grab another uC riiight.gif
Back to top
View users profile Send private message Send email
Paramount X
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 15 Jun 2005
4659. PostPosted: Sat Aug 06, 2005 8:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Marcan what is that thingy of the pic. If its a pad why does it look so different. Did you put in lights in it? Better sensors?
Back to top
View users profile Send private message
Display posts from previous:   
This topic is locked you cannot edit posts or make replies    DDR Freak Forum Index -> Bemani Controllers All times are GMT - 8 Hours
Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3 ... 232, 233, 234 ... 339, 340, 341  Next
Page 233 of 341

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum


Powered by phpBB 2 © 2001, 2002 phpBB Group