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My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)
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Mukan
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2760. PostPosted: Sat Oct 16, 2004 8:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ulala321 wrote:
Okay, so I'll shell out 20-30 bucks for a madcatz http://www.madcatz.com/MadCatz/product_details.jsp?product_id=6040 universal pad, right?


Yes, that's the one, I believe.

Ulala321 wrote:
And then I'll use Toolookah's tutorial @ http://www.tolookah.net/DDR/ to wire my pad up to the madcatz control box.


Yes, that's also correct.

Ulala321 wrote:
But, if I want two pads like so: http://server5.uploadit.org/files/Ulala321-twopads.jpg I'm going to have to shell out another 20-30 bucks for another mad catz pad and wire it just as I did the first?


Yes, the control boards have to be seperate, and only one per pad. And Vice Versa.

Ulala321 wrote:
Also, will I want to put the circuit board(s) into a control box, or does it matter? Thanks guys. E1.gif


You will DEFINETELY want to keep them in some sort of box, so it can't touch other things, because touching other things are bad. Very very bad, sometimes.
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moonmen0
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2761. PostPosted: Sat Oct 16, 2004 3:48 pm    Post subject: pad construction Reply with quote

I am constructing the non-arrow panels for my pad, i got my dad to help me cut them, they are almost totally square, but a few of them are between 1/16 an 1/8 off, they look (to the eye) square enough, but I haven’t put the metal on them yet, ....it’ll be a lot of trouble to shave them down so........

1 will it look bad if I don’t fix it after i put the metal on it
2 will i have problems making everything fit if I don’t
3 anything else I haven’t though of (other reasons I need to fix it)


Thanks a lot
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HitokiriX
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2762. PostPosted: Sat Oct 16, 2004 5:36 pm    Post subject: Re: pad construction Reply with quote

moonmen0 wrote:
I am constructing the non-arrow panels for my pad, i got my dad to help me cut them, they are almost totally square, but a few of them are between 1/16 an 1/8 off, they look (to the eye) square enough, but I haven’t put the metal on them yet, ....it’ll be a lot of trouble to shave them down so........

1 will it look bad if I don’t fix it after i put the metal on it
2 will i have problems making everything fit if I don’t
3 anything else I haven’t though of (other reasons I need to fix it)


Thanks a lot


it would be best to shave them down now before anything that could possibly happen arises. i don't think u would have too much trouvle if you didn't though cuz it's by such a small amount but then again it's the smallest things that are the most annoying....it's ur choice but if i were you i would shave em just to be sure.

it won't look bad after the metal's on it. it'll all probably fit well. nothin in the building process requires everything to be exact.
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somnambulist
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2763. PostPosted: Sat Oct 16, 2004 8:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

it'll be easy to get them square if you use a hand planer.

If you don't have them square now, you will not be able to get them perfectly square, but as long as you measure the plexi pieces to fit in whatever size gap you have indivually, you SHOULD be fine.

If you don't have exact measurements and just cut the plexi to 11x11, there will probably be either blank space or not enough space. If not enough, you would just need to cut the plexi down. If too much space, the plexi will slide around a little.
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Ulala321
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2764. PostPosted: Sun Oct 17, 2004 1:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mukan wrote:

You will DEFINETELY want to keep them in some sort of box, so it can't touch other things, because touching other things are bad. Very very bad, sometimes.


Should I snag a box like the ter ter box and put the circuit boards in that?
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somnambulist
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2765. PostPosted: Sun Oct 17, 2004 5:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any form of static free casing should work. If it's internal (riptides) it isn't so much of a big deal, just make sure it's on static free material and held down well.

If it's external (ter's) you can either build a terter box or follow parts of the directions and use a radio shack project enclosure without all the buttons.
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Happyfeet
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2766. PostPosted: Sun Oct 17, 2004 9:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mukan wrote:
Every other person that has posted here in the last few days has asked that same thing practically. I think it's time for Posting And You.

And for the record, I've read through 70 pages of this thread.


I agree! I went through almost every page in the forum (100+ pages) before I joined and asked the XBox/PS2 question. I know everyone's super excited to start building and wants an answer to their question RIGHT NOW, but sometimes it's more beneficial to read past posts to find your answer because you may find answers to other questions you may have along the way, along with helpful links. Thanks to Mukan and Tolookah for their patience and repetitive answers!!!

I think Ulala321 and I are trying to do the same thing, so I'll be interested in hearing the answer about what to do with the control box. I wouldn't want anything bad to happen!! (It's like Ghostbusters...if you cross the streams, it would be bad) biggrin.gif
P.S. What's a ter ter box? Does that refer to Patster's design?
Just went back and read the previous post, which is an answer, so I guess I should say I'll be interested in hearing the OTHER answers about what to do with the control box, if there are any.
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Mukan
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2767. PostPosted: Sun Oct 17, 2004 9:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is the ter ter box, it's basically a design for a control box.
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hirme
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2768. PostPosted: Sun Oct 17, 2004 12:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi everyone, I have barely finished building my homepad for my xbox...
I soldered the wire directly on the dpad of the controller...everything is working fine EXCEPT that the pad can't register when I press 2 opposite arrows (left/right , up/down)
anyone know what I should do?
people don't have this problem with ps controller???
help erm.gif
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Mukan
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2769. PostPosted: Sun Oct 17, 2004 1:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hirme wrote:
Hi everyone, I have barely finished building my homepad for my xbox...
I soldered the wire directly on the dpad of the controller...everything is working fine EXCEPT that the pad can't register when I press 2 opposite arrows (left/right , up/down)
anyone know what I should do?
people don't have this problem with ps controller???
help erm.gif


This is a common problem with a lot of controllers (playstation and xbox alike).. As for how to fix it, I would recommend finding a controller that DOES allow Left+Right and Up+Down before soldering.

Sorry, but as far as I know there isn't a way to fix one to do that.
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hirme
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2770. PostPosted: Sun Oct 17, 2004 4:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok thx for the info!
is there any way to know if there is a controller who allow the left+right and up+down on the xbox?
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Mukan
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2771. PostPosted: Sun Oct 17, 2004 4:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, besides asking around, no, unless you want to purchase and test them, which could get costly. Unless there's like a list or something around here that I missed.
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hirme
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2772. PostPosted: Sun Oct 17, 2004 5:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thx for the help...
I'm going to buy 2 cheap pad on ebay for 35 bucks shipped...gonna rip the inside and solder it to my metal one...
and I will have a soft one for my girlfriend riiight.gif
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riptide
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2773. PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2004 5:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hirme wrote:
thx for the help...
I'm going to buy 2 cheap pad on ebay for 35 bucks shipped...gonna rip the inside and solder it to my metal one...
and I will have a soft one for my girlfriend riiight.gif


Yes, I was just going to suggest... and for anyone else who has had a problem finding a good controller for their pad... buy some cheap-o soft pads... rip them up, and use the controller boards out of them. They're built very rugged, and they handle well against soldering. They also usually have very large contacts to solder to... just make sure to scrape off the carbon material from the contacts before soldering.
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ch
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2774. PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2004 10:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thats how i like to think of it. the soft pad control board is perfect for playing ddr because its designed to be used as such. but, the pad is crap. so you can think of this as a soft pad upgrade.

if you run your toe horizontally across an arrow, ithe ps2 registers multipe presses. this is because, if you've ever looked inside your soft pad, its just two sheets of mesh that contact if you press down. that can register multiple steps when you play, so you want a solid sheet of metal there.

but the control box is da bomb.
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HitokiriX
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2775. PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2004 11:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

cartoonhero_604 wrote:
thats how i like to think of it. the soft pad control board is perfect for playing ddr because its designed to be used as such. but, the pad is crap. so you can think of this as a soft pad upgrade.

if you run your toe horizontally across an arrow, ithe ps2 registers multipe presses. this is because, if you've ever looked inside your soft pad, its just two sheets of mesh that contact if you press down. that can register multiple steps when you play, so you want a solid sheet of metal there.

but the control box is da bomb.


i'm not quite understanding what u mean by the whole "run ur toe" idea, but would that really matter? i mean it's not like anyone would use mesh inside their homebuilt pad instead of sheet metal. and u can't run your toe across plexiglass. well u can but i dont' think it would register as multiple taps compared to the cushiness of soft pads.
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ch
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2776. PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2004 1:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

im just explaining a peculiar circumstance with soft pads to show how much they suck. if you put just the tip of your toe on the soft pad arrow, and run it sideways, then the arrow will register multiple times, because there's mesh in there. thats why sometimes when you press on the arrow it wont register or will press multiple times, cause there's multiple contacts.

but it doesnt really matter.

the main point i was making was that the control board for the soft pads are designed to work like dance pads, so you dont have to worry about not hitting left and right at the same time or anything. and they're used to static buldup from socks rubbing against vynil, so theyd be resistant to shorting out from the static from the lucite.

vote softpad control box for president.
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Shadow_Dragonz
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2777. PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2004 1:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi,

I was wondering if anyone knows of a link that has the graphics of the arrows pictures, that aren't broken? I tried to check out the ones on page one and they didn't work. Thanks E1.gif

Shadow_Dragonz
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Mukan
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2778. PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2004 2:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shadow_Dragonz wrote:
hi,

I was wondering if anyone knows of a link that has the graphics of the arrows pictures, that aren't broken? I tried to check out the ones on page one and they didn't work. Thanks E1.gif

Shadow_Dragonz


Have you tried the ones on this website? There is a zip file with a .psd with all the combinations to make any button you need, provided by Sinistar, at his website.

I posted this but 3 pages back. Again, search is your friend. So is reading.
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Shadow_Dragonz
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2779. PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2004 2:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the link E13.gif , and for the quick reply E1.gif.

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