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_ter
Trick Member
Joined: 10 Sep 2002
Location: Seattle, WA |
2600.  Posted: Fri Oct 01, 2004 4:39 pm Post subject: |
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Ulala,
It's a bit more complicated than that. There's no "Standard" pin-out configuration for the control boxes, unless you consider the Cobalt Flux design to be the standard for all boxes.
The port itself is called a 9 Pin D-Sub, male or female (the one with pins is male) and you can get the parts to create one from a Cat-5 cable at Radio Shack. Or altenatively you could build your pad to have a d-sub in the front and then use a standard 3 or 6 foot serial cable to attach the two.
As far as knowing which pins do what, you would have to find that out from the control box manufacturer, or make your own box to know which pins function as which button.
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ledline
Trick Member
Joined: 13 May 2004
Location: somewhere in the 90th percentile |
| 2601. Posted: Fri Oct 01, 2004 5:06 pm Post subject: |
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how can I get the buttons like the arcade in stores?
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Tomo_kun
Trick Member
Joined: 26 Oct 2003
Location: SE-WI. |
| 2602. Posted: Fri Oct 01, 2004 5:23 pm Post subject: |
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| MR RUSSIA wrote: | | how can I get the buttons like the arcade in stores? |
Pad sensores? Not in stores. Buttons such as the ones on the machine, not in stores.
www.wicothesource.com
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| Cutriss wrote: | | FLCL, God of Gods wrote: | | Uh... so when do we get the porn forum? |
If you can't find porn on the Internet, you're not trying. |
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ch
Trick Member
Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Location: IN UR FORUM POSTING ON UR THRED |
| 2603. Posted: Fri Oct 01, 2004 5:32 pm Post subject: |
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i'm with ulala.
i'm building my first metal pad ala riptide, and im wondering what the best way to attach a back bar is...
without the pad falling over when i lean on it of course. |
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Ulala321
Trick Member
Joined: 28 Sep 2004
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| 2604. Posted: Fri Oct 01, 2004 6:10 pm Post subject: |
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| _ter wrote: | Ulala,
It's a bit more complicated than that. There's no "Standard" pin-out configuration for the control boxes, unless you consider the Cobalt Flux design to be the standard for all boxes.
The port itself is called a 9 Pin D-Sub, male or female (the one with pins is male) and you can get the parts to create one from a Cat-5 cable at Radio Shack. Or altenatively you could build your pad to have a d-sub in the front and then use a standard 3 or 6 foot serial cable to attach the two.
As far as knowing which pins do what, you would have to find that out from the control box manufacturer, or make your own box to know which pins function as which button. |
Okay, well I'm thinking the red octane control box would be best because then I can hook my pad up to my X-Box and my PS2. This is the one I'm looking at:
http://www.redoctane.com/controlboxreship.html
Does anyone here know which pins do what, or who I could contact to get that information? I'll try e-mailing red octane, but if anyone has some tips they'd be greatly appreciated! Basically I'd like to be able to plug my pad into a box that can plug into my system. I have instructions for wiring through an old PSX controller, but it looks a little sloppy. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks!  |
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ch
Trick Member
Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Location: IN UR FORUM POSTING ON UR THRED |
| 2605. Posted: Fri Oct 01, 2004 7:02 pm Post subject: |
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_ter made a page on rufus3.com about making a terterbox, which is a control box that has arcade style buttons on it. With it, he added a pin diagram of the output from a cobalt flux pad, as follows:
PIN CONFIGURATION FOR COBALT FLUX UNITS:
1 Ground
2 Up
3 Down
4 Left
5 Right
6 X
7 O
8 Select
9 Start
is this what you're looking for?
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Ulala321
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Joined: 28 Sep 2004
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| 2606. Posted: Fri Oct 01, 2004 9:05 pm Post subject: |
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Well, I looked at the control flux box, but it only goes to PSX/PS2. I was hoping to have a box that could go both to PSX/PS2 and X-Box like the red octane one, but I'm not sure about their pin configuration. I may just have to deal with only one system and get a control flux box. But it says something about start/select or triangle/square on platform? Is it talking about on my pad or what's going to be on the box? I'm not sure I understand what it's saying. Here's the link: https://host156.ipowerweb.com/~cobaltfl/sunshop/index.php?action=item&id=4&prevaction=search&previd=&prevstart=0
I suppose I could build one of the arcade style boxes that ter designed with the detailed instructions he gave. Ter, do you know if it's possible to build your arcade style box but with a PS2 cable out and an X-Box cable out too?
If I could find a way to wire my pad into a control box with both PSX/PS2 and X-Box out cords ( http://www.redoctane.com/controlboxreship.html ), that'd be like the 1337est thing evar. Any suggestions? |
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tolookah
Trick Member
Joined: 21 Sep 2003
Location: The People's Republic of Wesdives. |
| 2607. Posted: Fri Oct 01, 2004 9:56 pm Post subject: |
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think beatpad pro ^^ (check the link in my sig... the thing connects to both the xbox and the PS2)
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Aim: Tolookah
MSN: Tolookah
XBox: Tolookah
DDRPad Soldering and electrical Help: http://www.tolookah.net/DDR/ As hooded_paladin put it: "Currently, help for Beatpad Pro, official Sony Playstation Controller and ANY controller unless you are extremely stupid or lazy." |
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Ulala321
Trick Member
Joined: 28 Sep 2004
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| 2608. Posted: Fri Oct 01, 2004 10:21 pm Post subject: |
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| So I'd buy a beatpad pro, take off the black "box" part at the front of the pad, but then what do I do with my pad, solder directly into this box? I'm a little confused. I'm not catching the concept, can you help me out? Thanks much! |
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HitokiriX
Trick Member
Joined: 27 Mar 2004
Location: Berwyn, PA |
| 2609. Posted: Sat Oct 02, 2004 5:49 am Post subject: |
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| Ulala321 wrote: | | So I'd buy a beatpad pro, take off the black "box" part at the front of the pad, but then what do I do with my pad, solder directly into this box? I'm a little confused. I'm not catching the concept, can you help me out? Thanks much! |
i think the beatpad pro has a control board inside the "black box" that is compatible with both the xbox and ps2. therefore you can detach it from the beatpad pro and solder it to your own homemade pad and then add whicever system cord you want to play it on. ^^ nifty eh? |
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somnambulist
Basic Member
Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Location: wasting time wondering how not to waste time |
| 2610. Posted: Sat Oct 02, 2004 7:17 am Post subject: |
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_ter,
I'm trying to make your design, but I have a few questions.
1. What thickness of plywood did you use?
2. What gauge of (galvinized?) sheet metal did you use?
3. On your new contact design, what kind of tape did you use to attach the angle brackets to the wood/plexi? I understand the rest of the concept.
4. What thickness and type of plexi did you use? (I also assume you sandwhiched the graphic)
5. How do you attach your pad to your control box (i.e. where do you get your wires together and mount the 9-pin)? It almost looks like you screwed the contacts through the plywood and used the bottom of the plywood (http://www.rufus3.com/ddr/pad/new/DSCF0074.JPG) or it isn't shown here.
6. I don't think this will be a problem, but could I write up instructions on how to create your pad when I build one? |
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HitokiriX
Trick Member
Joined: 27 Mar 2004
Location: Berwyn, PA |
| 2611. Posted: Sat Oct 02, 2004 8:20 am Post subject: |
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| somnambulist wrote: | _ter,
I'm trying to make your design, but I have a few questions.
1. What thickness of plywood did you use?
2. What gauge of (galvinized?) sheet metal did you use?
3. On your new contact design, what kind of tape did you use to attach the angle brackets to the wood/plexi? I understand the rest of the concept.
4. What thickness and type of plexi did you use? (I also assume you sandwhiched the graphic)
5. How do you attach your pad to your control box (i.e. where do you get your wires together and mount the 9-pin)? It almost looks like you screwed the contacts through the plywood and used the bottom of the plywood (http://www.rufus3.com/ddr/pad/new/DSCF0074.JPG) or it isn't shown here.
6. I don't think this will be a problem, but could I write up instructions on how to create your pad when I build one? |
hey i noticed that in the pictures all the contacts are connected to each other. does that mean there is no separate ground wire in your pad ter? or do you use the huge galvanized sheet metal square underneath the entire pad as a ground like the other pad?
somnam i think the rest of the pad is built with almost the exactly the same instructions as riptide's pad. just build the pad like riptide's except use ter's pictures when building the internals for each arrow and circuitry on the control board. that is once ter releases that information.... |
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moonmen0
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Joined: 08 Jul 2004
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HitokiriX
Trick Member
Joined: 27 Mar 2004
Location: Berwyn, PA |
| 2613. Posted: Sat Oct 02, 2004 10:53 am Post subject: |
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| hey guys my dad's skeptical about the sturdiness of riptide's pad design. he won't buy me any supplies until i show him that it doesn't warp much even on carpet. the only place that i can play on is very cushy carpet and my old CG pad has been squeeking when i play from the day i got it. it's because the joints on the rim of the pad can't hold the pad as rigid as it should be and so the metal creaks.....alot. could any of you who have built a pad with riptide's design tell me how reliable it is on carpets? like does it squeek at all or does it warp? thanks a lot |
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ch
Trick Member
Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Location: IN UR FORUM POSTING ON UR THRED |
| 2614. Posted: Sat Oct 02, 2004 10:53 am Post subject: |
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has anyone even made a backbar for their pad?
because i was just thinking of making the plywood base longer and bolting a 2x4 onto the end, then screwing a 1.5" bar on the back
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_ter
Trick Member
Joined: 10 Sep 2002
Location: Seattle, WA |
| 2615. Posted: Sat Oct 02, 2004 10:54 am Post subject: |
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| somnambulist wrote: | _ter,
I'm trying to make your design, but I have a few questions.
1. What thickness of plywood did you use? |
Both the baseboard and the squares are 3/4" plywood.
| Quote: | | 2. What gauge of (galvinized?) sheet metal did you use? |
I think it was 26.
| Quote: | | 3. On your new contact design, what kind of tape did you use to attach the angle brackets to the wood/plexi? I understand the rest of the concept. |
It's scotch foam tape, 1/2" wide.
http://www.artstuff.net/foam_tape.htm
It takes about 40 inches per arrow
Also, you can't see from the picture, but the wires going between the bracket an the tape go about 2" under the bracket on each side, stripped, to ensure good contact and never come undone.
| Quote: | | 4. What thickness and type of plexi did you use? (I also assume you sandwhiched the graphic) |
Sandwiched .22, like Riptide's.
| Quote: | | 5. How do you attach your pad to your control box (i.e. where do you get your wires together and mount the 9-pin)? It almost looks like you screwed the contacts through the plywood and used the bottom of the plywood (http://www.rufus3.com/ddr/pad/new/DSCF0074.JPG) or it isn't shown here. |
This part has never been completed. (the mounting D-sub that is).
To get the wires from the down, left, and right arrow to the front arrow, I routed wire channels in the center panel:
http://www.rufus3.com/ddr/pad/new/DSCF0054.JPG
Then, once they're in the middle of the up arrow, just used the five screws there as a barrier strip. Then, in the original design, the finished pad is supposed to have a frame:
http://www.rufus3.com/ddr/pad/new/DSCF0076.JPG
Made from 1" X 1.5" pine rails. I was going to mount a d-sub connector in the frame itself in front of the up arrow, routing 5 flat cat5 cables to the pin connections from the barrier strip.
| Quote: | | 6. I don't think this will be a problem, but could I write up instructions on how to create your pad when I build one? |
As mentioned earlier I was looking for somebody I could build a pad for and then document it's development, and I found somebody last night. We'll be starting construction on it soon and hopefully we'll be getting video as well. However if you want to make up a writeup in the mean time feel free to do so. I'd even host it on my site in the interim.
All in all I'm excited you're trying it out
Let me know if I can help any more.
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_ter
Trick Member
Joined: 10 Sep 2002
Location: Seattle, WA |
| 2616. Posted: Sat Oct 02, 2004 11:06 am Post subject: |
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| HitokiriX wrote: |
hey i noticed that in the pictures all the contacts are connected to each other. does that mean there is no separate ground wire in your pad ter? or do you use the huge galvanized sheet metal square underneath the entire pad as a ground like the other pad?
somnam i think the rest of the pad is built with almost the exactly the same instructions as riptide's pad. just build the pad like riptide's except use ter's pictures when building the internals for each arrow and circuitry on the control board. that is once ter releases that information.... |
Notice there's brackets on both the Acrylic (top) and the well (bottom). The ground goes to the bottom set and the active wire to the top. The active wire is not connected yet in the picture.
| HitokiriX wrote: | | hey guys my dad's skeptical about the sturdiness of riptide's pad design. he won't buy me any supplies until i show him that it doesn't warp much even on carpet. the only place that i can play on is very cushy carpet and my old CG pad has been squeeking when i play from the day i got it. it's because the joints on the rim of the pad can't hold the pad as rigid as it should be and so the metal creaks.....alot. could any of you who have built a pad with riptide's design tell me how reliable it is on carpets? like does it squeek at all or does it warp? thanks a lot |
The pad I built does not have the same support structure as Riptide's pad. Instead of being arrow wells made from rails like Riptide & Patsters designs, the arrows are built flat on a solid 3/4" piece of backing plywood, which I think in the final design may be a 3/4" piece of melamine coated wood, the same material used in the cobalt flux. Instead of wiring through the hollow parts of the pad, you actually create "routed" channels as mentioned in the post above, to allow the wires to pass through the panels themselves. What you end up with is a very solid pad that is not capable of contortion.
For a video of me playing on the pad check out.
http://www.rufus3.com/ddr/vid/
Edit: Additional note; the video is with the old trigger design. It worked well for the first month and then the sheet metal mounted with foam tape started to warp. The angle brackets are mounted in the exact same fashion except they cause no warping.
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somnambulist
Basic Member
Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Location: wasting time wondering how not to waste time |
| 2617. Posted: Sat Oct 02, 2004 11:46 am Post subject: |
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don't wait up on my FAQ, it could take me a while (i only have 2-3 hours a day maximum to spend making a pad)
as for the channels, what tool did you use? lathe? chisel? 1/4" drill bit and some luck? |
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Ulala321
Trick Member
Joined: 28 Sep 2004
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| 2618. Posted: Sat Oct 02, 2004 12:35 pm Post subject: |
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| HitokiriX wrote: |
i think the beatpad pro has a control board inside the "black box" that is compatible with both the xbox and ps2. therefore you can detach it from the beatpad pro and solder it to your own homemade pad and then add whicever system cord you want to play it on. ^^ nifty eh? |
Do you know if the beat pad comes with PS2 and X-Box cords? And is there any other wallet friendly alternatives? I'd rather not spend $35 on a pad I'm just going to disassemble (and probably mess up in the process  ) if I can get away with it. |
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HitokiriX
Trick Member
Joined: 27 Mar 2004
Location: Berwyn, PA |
| 2619. Posted: Sun Oct 03, 2004 7:41 am Post subject: |
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| _ter wrote: | | HitokiriX wrote: |
hey i noticed that in the pictures all the contacts are connected to each other. does that mean there is no separate ground wire in your pad ter? or do you use the huge galvanized sheet metal square underneath the entire pad as a ground like the other pad?
somnam i think the rest of the pad is built with almost the exactly the same instructions as riptide's pad. just build the pad like riptide's except use ter's pictures when building the internals for each arrow and circuitry on the control board. that is once ter releases that information.... |
Notice there's brackets on both the Acrylic (top) and the well (bottom). The ground goes to the bottom set and the active wire to the top. The active wire is not connected yet in the picture.
| HitokiriX wrote: | | hey guys my dad's skeptical about the sturdiness of riptide's pad design. he won't buy me any supplies until i show him that it doesn't warp much even on carpet. the only place that i can play on is very cushy carpet and my old CG pad has been squeeking when i play from the day i got it. it's because the joints on the rim of the pad can't hold the pad as rigid as it should be and so the metal creaks.....alot. could any of you who have built a pad with riptide's design tell me how reliable it is on carpets? like does it squeek at all or does it warp? thanks a lot |
The pad I built does not have the same support structure as Riptide's pad. Instead of being arrow wells made from rails like Riptide & Patsters designs, the arrows are built flat on a solid 3/4" piece of backing plywood, which I think in the final design may be a 3/4" piece of melamine coated wood, the same material used in the cobalt flux. Instead of wiring through the hollow parts of the pad, you actually create "routed" channels as mentioned in the post above, to allow the wires to pass through the panels themselves. What you end up with is a very solid pad that is not capable of contortion.
For a video of me playing on the pad check out.
http://www.rufus3.com/ddr/vid/
Edit: Additional note; the video is with the old trigger design. It worked well for the first month and then the sheet metal mounted with foam tape started to warp. The angle brackets are mounted in the exact same fashion except they cause no warping. |
wow that's a really cool design for the arrow internals ter! never thought about making the contacts on the arrow panel a part of the circuitry....i'm still a bit confused on the ground part. what does the ground wire coming from each arrow panel do? does it take out static build up from the control board? or does it only help in sending a signal to the control board?
yes i understand the fact that you don't have 2 by 4's to support your pad like riptide's and patster's but does that really make your's more sturdy? i mean wouldn't the 2 by 4's support the pad even better because under them is the same plywood base that you use? so they would have 4 2 by 4's adding support to their pads while you don't. maybe i'm just thinking about this the wrong way or sumthin.... |
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