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My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)
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tolookah
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2500. PostPosted: Fri Sep 17, 2004 8:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

its the communicator thinger... for Live play (UltraMix has live capability)... he just made it accessable (which im curious how he set that up, and if the pad shows up as a pad)
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D r S a n e
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2501. PostPosted: Sat Sep 18, 2004 10:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Along with my other questions:

Quote:
"$3 - 1" by 3" MDF Fiberboard 4 foot length (1 piece) "


http://www.digitaltorque.com/dancepad/ddrdone.html

Is this a typo because I can't find where we use that... laugh.gif

Edit: Can I use double-sided tape, 1 inch wide, 1/8th thick for the weather-stripping? (Getting frustrated again...)

Post Edit: I have looked everywhere but I can't find out how to solder the frig Ps Sony controller! All it is is a weird paper thing and a tiny board... frust.gif
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ddrhomepad
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2502. PostPosted: Sat Sep 18, 2004 6:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sane wrote:
Along with my other questions:

Quote:
"$3 - 1" by 3" MDF Fiberboard 4 foot length (1 piece) "


http://www.digitaltorque.com/dancepad/ddrdone.html

Is this a typo because I can't find where we use that... laugh.gif


That's for the backpiece
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8BitHero
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2503. PostPosted: Sat Sep 18, 2004 6:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sane wrote:
Damn, that thing about the sensors makes me want to have maked riptides now...

Is there anyway I can mod the sensors to be like riptides (I'm almost completed the frame now).

And on DDR Homepad design, does anything go below the metal outside panels besides the MDF rails, because it seems a little thin...

EDIT: To wrap the sheet metal around the wood, you use a rubber mallet moving back and forth along the top edge of the wood and it'll be wrapped at a 90 degree angle in no time. E1.gif

POST EDIT: Back to my third paragraphing, it's only a third inch thin. It doesn't look like an arrow could fit in there...
- And do I make two layers of peg board, one for the arrows and one on the bottom of the pad?
- How are the sensors not in the middle of the pad, it looks lik the whole sheet metal piece in the sensor?

Sorry for the overload of questions... goog.gif



Im not a mean guy but to the person who said his friend soldered his pad while still hooked up to the ps2, thats just downright stupid.

now sane:

I wouldnt worry about switching to riptides design, as long as you dont do a really really bad solder job there is no reason it will come loose.


im not sure what your asking in your second question but this is how the pad is from bottom to top.

at the very bottom the part that will be on your floor when playing is a 33"x33" sheet of pegboard, then you have the MDF rails(i just used wood 1x2) that screw into the base of the frames 4 corner and center and for the buttons, the bottom most part of the button is mdf rails then an 11"x11" peice of peg board with 9.5"x9.5" with the corners trimed so the bracket screw dont short to the top sensor.(i believe thats the dimensions) peice of sheetmetal glued to that pegboard, and a ground wire will be soldered to that sheet metal, that whole peice of sheet metal IS the base of the sensor. and around the edge of that button base you will have the weather stripping to push the top part of the sensor back up when your not stomping it. now the top part of a button (again from bottom to top) is another 9.5"x9.5" peice of sheet metal with the corners cut. and on that sheet metal a wire gets soldered for a corasponding arrow. then that sheet gets glued to an 11"x11" peice of lucite ,lexan or whatever you use, and duct tape the sheet metal to the lucite around the edge, then on top of the 11"x11" lucite goes your arrow graphic, and lastly on top of that goes one more 11"x11" lucite peice which is what you step on while playing.

i hope thats not to confusing E1.gif
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D r S a n e
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2504. PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2004 4:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No, not at all, it helps to know I was doing the right thing. Thanks. thumb.gif

Now I just need to know how to soder a PS Sony Controller, and if it's possible to make my sensors like Riptide's (it's probably too late now).
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tolookah
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2505. PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2004 5:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

for soldering help... check my sig, that page will stay up as long as i have hits to it it may move when i get the chance to move my site around though, but it will be up!)
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HitokiriX
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2506. PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2004 6:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hey everyone. i've been searching through the forums and blue beefman and patster's names come up quite often, but i can't find the instructions for their design. i know patster's is complete different from the rest and blue beefman's is just a slight change from riptide's but i hear both are compatible for lights!!! happy.gif could anyone who was here when they were show me or give me the design for their pads plz???

oh and when you solder ground wires to the controller to all the grounds go into one ground soldering thing or does each ground wire pair up with its pair arrow wire? that wording confuses me too.....
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dejaydreams
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2507. PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2004 8:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

tolookah wrote:
its the communicator thinger... for Live play (UltraMix has live capability)... he just made it accessable (which im curious how he set that up, and if the pad shows up as a pad)


I just bought a cheapo DDR pad off of ebay and then hacked the box into the space under the upper left corner false pad. In order to use the xbox live communicator port I had to extend the ribbon cable from the port to the controller.

And yes it will show up as a DDR pad, not a controller, that's because I used the DDR pad controller to hook up to instead of a normal controller.
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Heffenfeffer
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2508. PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2004 10:07 am    Post subject: Controllers and you - a hacker's guide Reply with quote

Hey folks, I've got a quick question - my controller (an orginal PSX non-dual shock) doesn't seem to be working for left and right. The thing is, it's not just the pad that's having trouble with left and right, but the controller itself - I touch the connections with the little rubbery thing under the control pad, and every connection works except for left and right. I think I may know what went wrong, but I'd like confirmation...to facilitate fit the controller back in the case, I removed the L1 and L2 CB from the wires they were connected to. Did this somehow disable left and right?

Thanks!
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D r S a n e
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2509. PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2004 1:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It says how to do an Official Sony Playsation Controller, but I guess that is not what I got.

I have this weird Green paper on a plastic hold... blink.gif
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enjoi_skating
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2510. PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2004 2:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sane wrote:
It says how to do an Official Sony Playsation Controller, but I guess that is not what I got.

I have this weird Green paper on a plastic hold... blink.gif
i pretty sure you cant use those kind of controllers.just get a cheap noname brand one.
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D r S a n e
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2511. PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2004 4:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Damn...what if I used something like a keyboard (LIGHTBULB POWAR!) or a Gamepad controller. That way I wouldn't need to get the PC adapter!? biggrin.gif
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Paranoia Survivor
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2512. PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2004 5:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

instead of going out and buying a ps1 to solder to, just use your old softpad control box. plus, i don't think it will fry. i fried 3 controllers b4 i decided to use my old softpad. when i had the 3 controllers, i could actually feel static along teh arrows. with the old softpad control box, there is no static wat so ever. so save a few bucks and solder an old softpad. it will take more work to figure out which one is which though, but the big one in the middle is the ground one. plus, remember to scratch the black cover things to reveal the metal part below it. this will actually allow the solder to stick to the controller (it wont stick to the black stuff)

hope this helps anyone.
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moonmen0
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2513. PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2004 7:32 pm    Post subject: keyboard Reply with quote

i was screwing around and decided to build a frankenstine style pad i think that is what it is called (foil and cardboard) ..... instead of using a controler, i used a keyboard, and it works jsut fine, i am about to build a ddrhomepad pad and i might use a keyboard cause you can plug it into your comouter and not have to worry about a converter. i think i got the plans for soldering to the keyboard at arcadecontrols.com



post back for any questions
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Weston
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2514. PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2004 8:28 pm    Post subject: Re: Controllers and you - a hacker's guide Reply with quote

Heffenfeffer wrote:
Hey folks, I've got a quick question - my controller (an orginal PSX non-dual shock) doesn't seem to be working for left and right. The thing is, it's not just the pad that's having trouble with left and right, but the controller itself - I touch the connections with the little rubbery thing under the control pad, and every connection works except for left and right. I think I may know what went wrong, but I'd like confirmation...to facilitate fit the controller back in the case, I removed the L1 and L2 CB from the wires they were connected to. Did this somehow disable left and right?

I don't think that would be a problem. I've removed the shoulder button portion of the circuit in one of my designs, and there were no problems. What most likely happened is that the computer chip was somehow damaged. It could be from too much heat or static shock.
Follow the path of the circuit through the portion of the controller you removed to see if it would affect the circuit board in any other way. Chances are that it won't but that'll give you an idea if the button removal was a problem. You may have to just get a new controller if the chip was damaged. I've done it about 3 times.
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enjoi_skating
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2515. PostPosted: Mon Sep 20, 2004 10:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dr Sane wrote:
Damn...what if I used something like a keyboard (LIGHTBULB POWAR!) or a Gamepad controller. That way I wouldn't need to get the PC adapter!? biggrin.gif
that would work. thumb.gif
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HitokiriX
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2516. PostPosted: Mon Sep 20, 2004 11:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hey everyone. i've been searching through the forums and blue beefman and patster's names come up quite often, but i can't find the instructions for their design. i know patster's is completely different from the rest and blue beefman's is just a slight change from riptide's but i hear both are compatible for lights!!! happy.gif could anyone who was here when they were around show me or give me the design for their pads please???

oh and when you solder ground wires to the controller to all the grounds go into one ground soldering thing or does each ground wire pair up with its partner arrow wire next to the correct solder thing on the controller? that wording confuses me too.....
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Heffenfeffer
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2517. PostPosted: Mon Sep 20, 2004 12:08 pm    Post subject: Mmm...Blue beef... Reply with quote

HitokiriX wrote:
hey everyone. i've been searching through the forums and blue beefman and patster's names come up quite often, but i can't find the instructions for their design. i know patster's is completely different from the rest and blue beefman's is just a slight change from riptide's but i hear both are compatible for lights!!! happy.gif could anyone who was here when they were around show me or give me the design for their pads please???

oh and when you solder ground wires to the controller to all the grounds go into one ground soldering thing or does each ground wire pair up with its partner arrow wire next to the correct solder thing on the controller? that wording confuses me too.....


Not sure where Blue Beefman's design is, but I'm pretty sure that Patster never published a how-to guide for his pad. A while back his site went offline, as well. All he had were some pictures of his pad from various angles, I believe.

As for the ground wires, there I can help. You only need one ground wire on the controller (look for the spot on the controller that touches all the buttons - or see a photograph as I don't have one handy) so you'll need to bring all the ground wires together. All four connect to the controller ground - they don't go with their 'partner' wire.

To prevent having to bore a hole in your controller big enough to fir all four wires, I recommend that you sauter the four ground wires to another wire - if you have some spare CAT-5 from building the pad, one of the wires in there will work just fine. A good way to do this is to either get some sort of wire clip (I don't know the Radio Shack technical term - it's a tube where you put the four grounds from your pad in one side and some spare wire from somewhere in the other and twist, making a secure connection between all five wires) or sautering them all together. A good way to make sure of a good connection when sautering is to strip about an inch of casing off of all five wires, then twisting the four grounds together. Once they're twisted, bend them down so they form a hook, and wrap the exposed fifth wire around the hook. Use some needlenose pliers to compress them, and then liberally apply sauter to the whole connection. Once it cools, tape it up with electrial tape, or get some wire melt.
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D r S a n e
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2518. PostPosted: Mon Sep 20, 2004 12:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay...so can someone explain to me where to start when soldering the keyboard... E19.gif
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dejaydreams
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2519. PostPosted: Mon Sep 20, 2004 1:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dr Sane wrote:
Okay...so can someone explain to me where to start when soldering the keyboard... E19.gif


well you need to trace the keyboard matrix back to the pads in order to complete the circuits for the keys you want

google it, don't expect to be spoonfed
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