| View previous topic :: View next topic |
| Author |
Message |
LordPyrex
Trick Member
Joined: 25 Apr 2004
Location: Yorktown, VA |
2320.  Posted: Tue Aug 17, 2004 8:01 am Post subject: |
 |
|
| FloppyFish wrote: | | Can someone PLEASE help me out? I need to know how to add push buttons to the top of the pad. And I'm using DDRhomepad's design. |
Not too difficult acctually. Drill holes to the size needed by the board in the sheet metal and support board underneath. You'll need to use a CAT5E cable or something else that has as many wires as neccesary for your buttons. Wire these just like one of the panels with the button to one side and the ground to the other side. That should be all you need to do.
_________________
Does anyone else ever get caught in that perpertual time loop that exists when your in line between Beginners and Light players? 
J/King we all started somewhere |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
joshuass
Basic Member
Joined: 03 Aug 2003
|
| 2321. Posted: Tue Aug 17, 2004 9:58 am Post subject: |
|
|
I made my own brackets (came out really really well i must say) I just takes a lot of time and patience.
If you wanna make your own, I suggest finding aluminum to do it with. I used aluminum and was able to get like 1/16 in thick aluminum to bend rahter easily with a hammer and vice.
Good luck
_________________
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
xerox personality
Trick Member
Joined: 12 Aug 2003
Location: Tasmania, Australia |
| 2322. Posted: Tue Aug 17, 2004 6:55 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| LordPyrex wrote: | I've never heard of anyone using springs though xerox. I must say that it is a new thought, but it would seem to cause some problems. First of all, how thick is the pad that you've built? It would seem that you would have to make the pad rather thick to have a decent repelling spring under the panel. Do they ever cause problems with bunching. Just curious since I haven't seen anyone else do this.  |
I've had my pad for almost a year now and I havn't had any problems with the springs. My pad is fairly thick. The lights I used are just standard 60w lightbulbs so it needed to be thinker to alow for them. As for the springs, they are about 50mm long and are sunk into the wood. Doing this alows for a longer spring making it more springy. Only about 4mm of spring is sticking out. If that all makes sence then you can see how i can get enough spring to push the arrows back up without the arrows having to have a huge gap to alow for the spring to fit into. There is a pic of what im talking about on my web-page in my sig. I'll find out the spec's of the springs i used as we tryed a few different springs but found these to work the best.
Peace Out 
Xerox_
_________________
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
grgisme
Trick Member
Joined: 07 Aug 2004
Location: Melbourne, Florida |
| 2323. Posted: Tue Aug 17, 2004 7:12 pm Post subject: Nice |
|
|
Hey Xerox, stick around these forums man, or give me your email so I can contact you. I'm building some pads starting around January and I really liked yoru explanations and stuff. I'll be able to use your help later on. The pictures may not be high quality, but they sure do explain some of the things a lot better.
_________________
DDRGRGISME |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
joshuass
Basic Member
Joined: 03 Aug 2003
|
| 2324. Posted: Wed Aug 18, 2004 1:24 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Springs are a good idea..ill look into it
Also Im thinking anti-fatigue matting would be a good choice too (should stand up to a lot of abuse im thinking given the kind of working conditions it is in) Price is of a concerning im guessing though :/
_________________
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Moose Jr.
Basic Member
Joined: 17 Aug 2004
|
| 2325. Posted: Wed Aug 18, 2004 10:24 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Springs are a great way to go. I copied xerox's spring-mounting system for my own pad, and so far as I can tell from playing around with the one arrow panel I've completed, it's going to work nicely.
If college doesn't get in the way I'll update my website with pics and all that jazz so ya'll can see what I'm talking about.
_________________
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
LordPyrex
Trick Member
Joined: 25 Apr 2004
Location: Yorktown, VA |
| 2326. Posted: Thu Aug 19, 2004 6:39 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Yeah, I have to admit that after looking at Xerox's design I have to say that it appears to be very well thought out. From the looks of the pictures it looks like you use 4 metal tabs with 4 sets of wires for each arrow, is that right. I guess these are run in parrallel and not series otherwise you could run into a full connection issue. When you get a chance you should sit down and do your own schematics on the system. I think that there would be quite a few people who would use your setup with its lights and its easily adjustable sesitivity system.
_________________
Does anyone else ever get caught in that perpertual time loop that exists when your in line between Beginners and Light players?
J/King we all started somewhere |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
xerox personality
Trick Member
Joined: 12 Aug 2003
Location: Tasmania, Australia |
| 2327. Posted: Thu Aug 19, 2004 7:35 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| LordPyrex wrote: | | Yeah, I have to admit that after looking at Xerox's design I have to say that it appears to be very well thought out. From the looks of the pictures it looks like you use 4 metal tabs with 4 sets of wires for each arrow, is that right. I guess these are run in parrallel and not series otherwise you could run into a full connection issue. When you get a chance you should sit down and do your own schematics on the system. I think that there would be quite a few people who would use your setup with its lights and its easily adjustable sesitivity system. |
Yeah. Ive been meaning to do that for quite a while now. Bought a new digital cammera the other day *YAY* so I will be able to update the pictures. I will also draw and explain the electronics, i.e. the relays, wiring, lights and putting it all together, hopefully in a language everyone can understand.
To answer your question Pyrex, yes there are 4 tabs per arrow, one in each corner. The other contact is a metal square that runs all the way around the arrow and can touch all the tabs at the one time so it doesn't matter if the wiring is parrallel or series... i think
If thats what you mean when you say "full connection issue".
PeaceOut
Xerox_
_________________
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Bonedancer
Trick Member
Joined: 20 Aug 2004
Location: Mesa, Arizona |
| 2328. Posted: Sat Aug 21, 2004 10:18 am Post subject: What to use to cut |
|
|
| Hello, I have finally joined after a couple of weeks of looking through the forum. I am making the DDRhomepad metal pad and I am not very good with tech stuff. I am wondering whether a Miter saw would work for cutting the big squares and rectangles of acrylic {duraplex}, plywood, and the big 4' by 4' peg board. Thank in advance for all your replies. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
LordPyrex
Trick Member
Joined: 25 Apr 2004
Location: Yorktown, VA |
| 2329. Posted: Sat Aug 21, 2004 5:52 pm Post subject: Re: What to use to cut |
|
|
| Bonedancer wrote: | | Hello, I have finally joined after a couple of weeks of looking through the forum. I am making the DDRhomepad metal pad and I am not very good with tech stuff. I am wondering whether a Miter saw would work for cutting the big squares and rectangles of acrylic {duraplex}, plywood, and the big 4' by 4' peg board. Thank in advance for all your replies. |
Well, I think that you could use this to cut all your wooden pieces, however it will more than likely chip and splinter the duraplex. My suggestion is that if you haven't already bought the acrylic plastic, buy it from one of the big chains like Home Dpot or Lowes and then have then cut it for you.
_________________
Does anyone else ever get caught in that perpertual time loop that exists when your in line between Beginners and Light players?
J/King we all started somewhere |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Bonedancer
Trick Member
Joined: 20 Aug 2004
Location: Mesa, Arizona |
| 2330. Posted: Sat Aug 21, 2004 7:37 pm Post subject: What to do? |
|
|
Thank you Lord Pyrex. I have already bought the duraplex from Lowe's but I did not have them cut it because I thought I could do it. I still have the receipt and the wrapping is still on it. Do you think I could just bring the receipt and the duraplex back in for them to cut it? Thanks once again.  |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
8BitHero
Trick Member
Joined: 18 Aug 2004
|
| 2331. Posted: Sat Aug 21, 2004 10:26 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| Ok so the last few days Ive been looking over DDRHOMEPADs design.... now does the base of each button hang from the corner brackets? I thought the base of the buttons got screwed into the 33x33 pegboard base. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
LordPyrex
Trick Member
Joined: 25 Apr 2004
Location: Yorktown, VA |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
8BitHero
Trick Member
Joined: 18 Aug 2004
|
| 2333. Posted: Sun Aug 22, 2004 10:32 am Post subject: |
|
|
| so how do you adujst the buttons |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
LaZazn
Basic Member
Joined: 20 Aug 2004
|
| 2334. Posted: Sun Aug 22, 2004 10:37 am Post subject: |
|
|
| I made the pad and wired everything together. The thing is, the buttons doesnt register. I have all the wires soldered correctly onto the controller. The controller doesnt even work by itself. I'm frustrated. I soldered another controller but it doesnt work either. Can anyone help? I followed Mirror's design with the 2 sheet metal as contacts. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Bonedancer
Trick Member
Joined: 20 Aug 2004
Location: Mesa, Arizona |
| 2335. Posted: Sun Aug 22, 2004 12:02 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| Yeah, I got the high impact acrylic. I am planning on going to Lowe's today. Thank you for your help. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
LordPyrex
Trick Member
Joined: 25 Apr 2004
Location: Yorktown, VA |
| 2336. Posted: Sun Aug 22, 2004 3:01 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| BlinkLink wrote: | | so how do you adujst the buttons |
What type of adjustment are you asking about? If its for sensitivity, then you just have to work with the material that acts as you sponge/spring.
| LaZazn wrote: | | I made the pad and wired everything together. The thing is, the buttons doesnt register. I have all the wires soldered correctly onto the controller. The controller doesnt even work by itself. I'm frustrated. I soldered another controller but it doesnt work either. Can anyone help? I followed Mirror's design with the 2 sheet metal as contacts. |
Well, as long as you have a true complete circuit with ther correct sheet metal and judging by the fact that you say that it doesn't even function as a controller anymore.... I would say that you are having a static issue. Small charges of electricity can be formed by any type of friction and this can in turn render the circuit board useless. I would recommend using a one time use static electricity armband that would help to ground you from frying a third. This can be purchased from Radio Shack if you are looking for one.
_________________
Does anyone else ever get caught in that perpertual time loop that exists when your in line between Beginners and Light players?
J/King we all started somewhere |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Type-Z
Basic Member
Joined: 05 Feb 2003
Location: Carrollton, Texas |
| 2337. Posted: Sun Aug 22, 2004 3:59 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| Does anyone have a clue on how you can cut some 22 guage sheet metal? Like which tool? Any help would be greatly apreciated. I'm using Riptide's design. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Home Slice
Basic Member
Joined: 18 Feb 2004
|
| 2338. Posted: Sun Aug 22, 2004 4:10 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| Can I just use regular wire instead of telephone or Cat5? If I can what size should it be? |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
8BitHero
Trick Member
Joined: 18 Aug 2004
|
| 2339. Posted: Sun Aug 22, 2004 5:35 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| LordPyrex wrote: | | BlinkLink wrote: | | so how do you adujst the buttons |
What type of adjustment are you asking about? If its for sensitivity, then you just have to work with the material that acts as you sponge/spring.
|
Well what are the screws for that go down through the top of the brackets through the lucite? just to keep the buttons in line? |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
Forums FAQ
Search
Memberlist
Usergroups
Register
Profile
Login to check your private messages
Login
