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My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)
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ZotTower
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500. PostPosted: Thu May 22, 2003 5:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I decided to go with the corner braces instead of the screws. Here are all the pic's I've taken of my design so far.

http://student.seas.gwu.edu/~zottower/DDR%20Pad/

The one called "prototype" something is probably the most useful to see how my arrow panels will be. It shows my latex tubing too. Oh and I got the dimensions of the tubing wrong. It's only 1/4" on the inside and .375" outside....I think....
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ZotTower
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501. PostPosted: Thu May 22, 2003 6:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh I have a question...probably for beefman...

did you (or anybody using beefman's design) have problems with the plexiglass having to move too far down from its resting position to make contact with the corner brackets.

Cause I'm figuring on the metal panels...they are about .8" tall (.75" plywood plus the thin sheet metal)

Then you have the 2 layers of plexiglass (.25" each, and maybe .5 for the sheet metal stuck to the bottom on the sides.

That comes out to the plexiglass panels having to be depressed by almost a quarter of an inch to complete the connection. This seems like too much to me. The obvious way to fix it would be to raise the height of the corner brackets. Anybody have any ideas?
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nitroBlaster
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502. PostPosted: Thu May 22, 2003 6:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know this might be abit off topic but seeing how this has become the ''building'' thread heres a pic of my new pop'n music controller I made
http://nitroblaster.veatei.net/mypopn.bmp E4.gif just some more decorating to do and i'm finished. it was very easy and only cost around $100
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MoonJihad
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503. PostPosted: Thu May 22, 2003 6:53 pm    Post subject: Platform plans Reply with quote

Here are some of the plans my friend made :
http://www.geocities.com/moon_jihad/ddrplatform.html

I am going to release the plans once they are done(we're thinking of finishing them this weekend). What do you think?

Basically it's a single/double platform(it can be splitted in two for easier carrying/limited space areas). I am thinking of adding a bar, but I don't have any dimensions for it.

[Edit : I also think I mixed up the panel colors]


Last edited by MoonJihad on Thu May 22, 2003 6:59 pm, edited 1 time in total
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-joe-
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504. PostPosted: Thu May 22, 2003 6:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

zottower, i must say, your pad is looking AMAZING. EXCELLENT job!

also, i didnt have a problem, my arrows BARELY go down, there so sensitive, its nice.

my biggest problem is having the screws on the braces dent the hell out of the sheet metal contacts, then that causes arrow twitching

im still working on that erm.gif
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Andreq
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505. PostPosted: Thu May 22, 2003 8:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So god said : " I want damn f**** light on this earth" and so earth was full of light

and so I said : "I want damn f**** light on my pad" and so my pad was full of light !!!!!


yep.. easy like hell... that what I thinked first..... damn transistor..


ill try to make a working plan for this "easy" system (damn cheap solder !!!oups.. sry)... and make a list of what you need.. and a picture of the arrow (left is done.. ill try to make the other now..) with the light... yep.. my LED... suck..no..but its like a big ultrabirhgt spot in the center.. and othyer than that its nothing... i turned it upside down and put some aluminium foil and it light a bit "more spredy" but.. not really bright... ill show you what it look like tomorow.. im so tired now... (work... + adding light....... 4h for work.... 3 for light... damn.. i hate my cheap solder !!!)


so.. bed.... im coming !!!(dont think....you know..)
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Blue Beefman
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506. PostPosted: Thu May 22, 2003 8:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ZotTower wrote:
Oh I have a question...probably for beefman...

did you (or anybody using beefman's design) have problems with the plexiglass having to move too far down from its resting position to make contact with the corner brackets.

Cause I'm figuring on the metal panels...they are about .8" tall (.75" plywood plus the thin sheet metal)

Then you have the 2 layers of plexiglass (.25" each, and maybe .5 for the sheet metal stuck to the bottom on the sides.

That comes out to the plexiglass panels having to be depressed by almost a quarter of an inch to complete the connection. This seems like too much to me. The obvious way to fix it would be to raise the height of the corner brackets. Anybody have any ideas?


well the brace itself is about 1/16 inch thick and the head of the screw sticks about about another 1/8 of an inch, and then so all thats left is a tiny space about 1/16 of an inch for the arrow to move, even less if you have thicker braces

MoonJihad-so your planning on making your own corner brackets?
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riptide
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507. PostPosted: Fri May 23, 2003 4:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andreq wrote:
So god said : " I want damn f**** light on this earth" and so earth was full of light

and so I said : "I want damn f**** light on my pad" and so my pad was full of light !!!!!


yep.. easy like hell... that what I thinked first..... damn transistor..


ill try to make a working plan for this "easy" system (damn cheap solder !!!oups.. sry)... and make a list of what you need.. and a picture of the arrow (left is done.. ill try to make the other now..) with the light... yep.. my LED... suck..no..but its like a big ultrabirhgt spot in the center.. and othyer than that its nothing... i turned it upside down and put some aluminium foil and it light a bit "more spredy" but.. not really bright... ill show you what it look like tomorow.. im so tired now... (work... + adding light....... 4h for work.... 3 for light... damn.. i hate my cheap solder !!!)


so.. bed.... im coming !!!(dont think....you know..)


But it works, huh.... so what's the model number/item number/part number or whatever for the transistor you're using and where did you get them? Or if you don't have a number for it, what are it's power ratings/specifications?
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MoonJihad
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508. PostPosted: Fri May 23, 2003 5:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blue Beefman wrote:

MoonJihad-so your planning on making your own corner brackets?


Yes, since I have access to all the right tools to build them. We(my friend and I) have also decided to forego the little block of wood that sits under the corner brace and replace it by a vertical piece of plexiglass, so that the corner screws do not eat through it, but rather are screwed into a metal thingy which sits inside the wooden part(sorry for the bad description, I'll put a picture of it soon).
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Andreq
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509. PostPosted: Fri May 23, 2003 8:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

riptide wrote:
Andreq wrote:
So god said : " I want damn f**** light on this earth" and so earth was full of light

and so I said : "I want damn f**** light on my pad" and so my pad was full of light !!!!!


yep.. easy like hell... that what I thinked first..... damn transistor..


ill try to make a working plan for this "easy" system (damn cheap solder !!!oups.. sry)... and make a list of what you need.. and a picture of the arrow (left is done.. ill try to make the other now..) with the light... yep.. my LED... suck..no..but its like a big ultrabirhgt spot in the center.. and othyer than that its nothing... i turned it upside down and put some aluminium foil and it light a bit "more spredy" but.. not really bright... ill show you what it look like tomorow.. im so tired now... (work... + adding light....... 4h for work.... 3 for light... damn.. i hate my cheap solder !!!)


so.. bed.... im coming !!!(dont think....you know..)


But it works, huh.... so what's the model number/item number/part number or whatever for the transistor you're using and where did you get them? Or if you don't have a number for it, what are it's power ratings/specifications?


rofl... I used a old transistor that was in a old car's radio. Ill try to read the number on it. But you could use really basic transistor at radioshack that can support ~3v base to emitter. Mine are a bit hot when they are pressed but they still work. Ill try to use 4 led for each arrow (I have a lot)

Picture will come asap
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statikeffeck
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510. PostPosted: Fri May 23, 2003 10:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hey I'm building a Patster style DDR pad...
I am using a Dual Shock controller... which I haven't really seen done yet. In this way, it should be compatible with a PC USB adapter as long as it is compatible with analogue mode (the controller can be mapped as buttons in analog mode).
So far I pre-wired the controller... it was very difficult: I ended up having to strip the RIBBON CABLE down to the individual metal strips inside. I used these to solder wires to.
LOL anyone ever try to strip down a ribbon cable?
its going to be lighted too... with custom made arrow graphics made out of construction paper. hahah
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-joe-
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511. PostPosted: Fri May 23, 2003 11:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

statikeffeck wrote:
hey I'm building a Patster style DDR pad...
I am using a Dual Shock controller... which I haven't really seen done yet. In this way, it should be compatible with a PC USB adapter as long as it is compatible with analogue mode (the controller can be mapped as buttons in analog mode).
So far I pre-wired the controller... it was very difficult: I ended up having to strip the RIBBON CABLE down to the individual metal strips inside. I used these to solder wires to.
LOL anyone ever try to strip down a ribbon cable?
its going to be lighted too... with custom made arrow graphics made out of construction paper. hahah


Cool, but take into consideration that light doesnt shine through construction paper that well
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krillin2121
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512. PostPosted: Fri May 23, 2003 12:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm makeing a RipTide base with a Beefman arrow design home pad, and I was wondering if its ok to use weatherstripping instead of the tubing in the arrow panels. I figured it wouldnt matter, but i could be wrong, just trying to figure this out.

[Edit]: Also, if I do need to use the tubing, what kind should i get, and are there any kinds I should not get (like if i cant find the required kind)?
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PureDynamo
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513. PostPosted: Fri May 23, 2003 3:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm having trouble soldering to a Mad Catz controller. Any tips? My problem is that the solder goes on both copper
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NeMothe1st
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514. PostPosted: Fri May 23, 2003 4:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nitroBlaster wrote:
I know this might be abit off topic but seeing how this has become the ''building'' thread heres a pic of my new pop'n music controller I made
http://nitroblaster.veatei.net/mypopn.bmp E4.gif just some more decorating to do and i'm finished. it was very easy and only cost around $100


That looking awesome! But I have a question, Why do you have like 3 seperate boxes. Why didn't you make one big box?
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NeMothe1st
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515. PostPosted: Fri May 23, 2003 4:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

PureDynamo wrote:
I'm having trouble soldering to a Mad Catz controller. Any tips? My problem is that the solder goes on both copper

What do you mean? do you mean on the buttons or the arrows?
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Andreq
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516. PostPosted: Fri May 23, 2003 4:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

NeMothe1st wrote:
nitroBlaster wrote:
I know this might be abit off topic but seeing how this has become the ''building'' thread heres a pic of my new pop'n music controller I made
http://nitroblaster.veatei.net/mypopn.bmp E4.gif just some more decorating to do and i'm finished. it was very easy and only cost around $100


That looking awesome! But I have a question, Why do you have like 3 seperate boxes. Why didn't you make one big box?


I think he used project box from radioshack and those are the bigest one I ever saw hehe
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ZotTower
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517. PostPosted: Fri May 23, 2003 7:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

krillin2121 wrote:
I'm makeing a RipTide base with a Beefman arrow design home pad, and I was wondering if its ok to use weatherstripping instead of the tubing in the arrow panels. I figured it wouldnt matter, but i could be wrong, just trying to figure this out.

[Edit]: Also, if I do need to use the tubing, what kind should i get, and are there any kinds I should not get (like if i cant find the required kind)?


Lots of people used the silicon tubing. I couldn't find it so I used some latex tubing I found at home depot. It's really springy and seems like it'll work great. You probably can use weather stripping w/o any problems. You might want to just put a little bit of weather stripping on though. I started off trying out weather stripping but I think I put too much so it was harder to push the lexan panels down. If you just put a little bit it'd probably be better. Mine was 5/8's or 1/4 of an inch tall. It's in one of my pics....which I'll have uploaded for everybody to look at in about 15 minutes.
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ZotTower
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518. PostPosted: Fri May 23, 2003 7:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here are my pictures with updates from today

http://student.seas.gwu.edu/~zottower/DDR%20Pad/pics.zip

I tried using washers today under the corner braces (to heighten them so the lexan wouldnt have to be pressed as far down. Turns out I didn't need them (It made the metal on the underside of the lexan touch the screws in the braces w/o the panel being pressed at all). So I took them out and It should be OK.

I'll explain my "grounding screw" as shown in one of the pictures too. The screw itself is not ground, I'm just using it as a meeting point for the ground wires of each button. Then I'm taking a single wire from that screw (it's now the only ground) and running that to the controller where it's soldered to the controller's ground.
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diabloslayer469
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519. PostPosted: Fri May 23, 2003 8:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think I might want to create my own dance pad, kind of like riptide's design but I don't have any tools and I am not that good at this kind of stuff. So what do I HAVE to do? I can have homedepot cut the 33x33 3/4" plywood and the five 10 7/8" squares, right? Can they also cut my plexiglass? Don't I have to cut off the corners by myself so that the corner braces can fit? Can Homedepot also do this? I also have a question about soldering the wires. I kind of got confused while I was reading riptide's insructions, but is this right: I solder on wire to the ground point on the controller, then i solder 4 wires to the end of the ground wire, then each one goes to one panel square, then i solder 4 more wires, each to up, down, left, and right, and then the corresponding wire goes to the corresponding square, right? Is this right? On riptide's videos he didn't show how to connect the wire to the start and select buttons ( he just drilled a hole and put the button in it). How do i connect wires to the buttons? Is it necessary to have start and select buttons? Thanks for reading post.
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